Category Archives: Manufacturer

4 Ways to Make Your Own Hand Embroidered Patches

Posted on by

DIY Embroidered Patches

Want to add some personal style to your favorite denim jacket or bag? Buttons, pins, badges and patches are a fun and popular way to do that, and DIY embroidered patches are so easy to make!

 

You can find embroidered patches available to order online–there are so many to choose from–but the beauty of making them yourself is that you can have any design you want. Plus, you can personalize them!

 

This tutorial will walk you through four methods for making and attaching your handmade patches. For each of these, choose patterns based on how large you want the patches to be. There’s no rule for this, but smaller designs, such as the elements in the fruit pattern, work well.

 

While there are four distinct methods for making patches, you’ll find that you can mix and match some of the techniques. For example, you can make a felt patch with adhesive, or a pin with different edge stitching. Have fun experimenting with these four DIY patch making processes!

 

Iron-on Patches Step 1

Iron-on patches are fast and easy to attach, which is always helpful. Plus, you can give these patches as gifts. Just include some simple iron-on instructions!

 

Instructions for Iron-on Patches

  • Choose a pattern, marking it with the transfer method that works best for the fabric you’re using. Stitch the design, leaving room around the edges. Cut a second piece of fabric to a similar size, as well as two pieces of paper-backed fusible web.
  • Iron one piece of fusible web to the non-embroidered piece of fabric. Be sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions, and watch that you place your iron on the paper side.

 

Iron-on Patches: Step 2

 

  • Peel the paper off the fusible web and place the fabric, web side down, on the back of the embroidered fabric. Iron the non-embroidered piece to fuse the layers together. This will give your patch more stability and help prevent the edges from fraying.
  • Iron the second piece of fusible web to the plain back of your fused patch and remove the paper.

 

Iron-on Patches: Step 3

  • Cut around the embroidered shape, following the lines of the motif and leaving some space around the embroidery.
  • The fusible web will help prevent fraying, but you can also stitch a line of running stitch near the edge to add extra insurance against fraying. Plus, it looks cute! To make your patch look more like those that are commercially made, use whip stitch around the edge as shown in the pin patch tutorial below.
  • When you’re ready to attach your iron-on patch, hold it in place and iron the patch from the back of the item you’re attaching it to. Make sure your iron is on a high enough setting for the heat to get through the layers.
  • If you are attaching this to an item that will be washed regularly, you may want to wait and add the line of stitching after it’s ironed in place.

 

Felt Sew-on Patches

This patch style requires minimal edge finishing because the felt won’t fray like other fabrics. It’s also sewn in place, so you know that your stitching won’t go anywhere!

 

Instructions for Felt Sew-on Patches

  • To embroider on felt, mark the pattern with water-soluble stabilizer or the tracing paper method. Be sure to arrange the embroidery so that there is ample space around the design for trimming the patch.
  • Embroider the pattern however you like. Satin stitching looks great on small patches, but you can also stick to all outlines.
  • When the embroidery is done, remove the markings.
  • If you used the tracing paper method you will need to carefully tear away the paper. For the water-soluble stabilizer method, soak the finished stitching and when the material dissolves, let the felt dry flat.
  • If you are using wool or wool blend felt (which hold up the best), it is very important that you use cool or room temperature water when you soak the embroidery. Warm water will cause your patch to shrink.

 

Felt Sew-on Patches: Step 2

  • Finish the patch by cutting around the embroidery.
  • You can loosely follow the shape of the stitching as shown or cut out a regular shape, such as a circle or hexagon.
  • The sample has nearly 1/4″ of the felt showing so there is plenty of space for sewing the patch onto something. But you can cut much closer. Just be sure that you don’t cut the stitches or trim the felt so close that the stitches fall out.

 

Felt Sew-on Patches: Step 3

  • To attach a patch, pin or hold the patch in place where you want it.
  • Stitch around the edge with regular embroidery floss. You can use blanket stitch or whip stitch, as you would with appliqué.
  • Felt patches shouldn’t be washed frequently. When they do need to go through the laundry, use the gentle cycle or place the patched item in a delicate bag or pillowcase.

 

Self-Adhesive Patches

Want a permanent patch that you can attach like a sticker? This is the method for you!

 

Instructions for Self-Adhesive Patches

  • Transfer your pattern onto any fabric that you like stitching on. Placing the design on the bias of the fabric prevents excess fraying later.
  • Cut a piece of stiff, heavy stabilizer and layer it behind the fabric as you place it in your embroidery hoop. Stitch the pattern through both layers. Getting through the stabilizer can take effort, so be sure to use a strong needle.

 

Self-Adhesive Patches: Step 2

  • Trim around the embroidered shape, leaving a bit of space for stitching the edges. For this method of patch making, cutting more geometric shapes is best.
  • Stitch around the edges of the patch with whip stitch or blanket stitch.

 

Self-Adhesive Patches: Step 3

  • Use permanent peel and stick fabric adhesive on the back of the patch. This material comes in sheets or on a roll as shown. Cut a single piece or strips to fit the patch within the stitched edges.
  • To attach the patch, peel off the self-adhesive backing and press the patch onto your backpack or even a notebook. Just remember that this type of adhesive is permanent, so removing your patch could prove quite tricky!

 

Removable Pin Patches

For those times when you want to sport a patch temporarily, why not make a pin that looks like a badge? This method is also great for gift-giving!

 

Instructions for Removable Pin Patches

  • Transfer your embroidery pattern onto fabric and stitch the design. In this example, the fabric provides some fill color for the embroidery.
  • Cut around the stitching, leaving 1/8″ to 1/4″ depending on how much of the edge you want to show. Cut a piece of felt that matches the shape of the embroidered piece.
  • On the back of the felt piece, sew a bar-style pinback. Be sure that you’re stitching on the correct side of the felt so that they will match up when the wrong sides of the pieces are facing each other.

 

Removable Pin Patches: Step 2

  • Hold or pin the two layers together and, using three strands of embroidery floss, start whip stitching around the edge. Hide the starting knot between the layers, coming out the back.
  • Go down through the front to the back, making the stitches very close to each other. They should look like satin stitch.
  • When you run out of thread, tie it off with a knot close to the felt, thread the needle through a few stitches on the back and trim the thread. Start your new thread just as before.
  • Attach your new pin to a jacket, and then move it to a bag, to a sweater and more!

 

If you like or need more information about embroidered badges, I recommend that you can visit the website of Dah Jeng Embroidery Inc. The company provides kinds of embroidery items including embroidered patches, 3D embroidery, embroidered emblem, chenille patches, sublimation transfers, etc. Learn more details, welcome to click here: www.embroidered-badge.com/embroidery-patches.html

 

 

Article Source: https://www.thespruce.com/diy-embroidered-felt-patches-4047059

Your Best Welded Mesh Turning & Stacking Machine Manufacturer – Jiu Tai Precision

Posted on by

Established in 1983, Jiu Tai Precision Industries Corp. is a remarkable welding equipment manufacturer specializing in welding equipment and wire mesh especially for welded mesh, chain link fence and conveyor belts, which are outstanding among the counterparts.

 

Sticking to the business concept of making the best better and pursuing perfection, the company dedicates to product research and development all the time. Its excellent quality, great trustworthiness and moderate price earn scores of praises.

 

Jiu Tai’s stacking machine is one of their excellent machines. Here, I am going to simply introduce this machine below:

 

Automatic Welded Mesh Turning & Stacking Machine

JT-MTS Series
JT-MTS Series Automatic Welded Mesh Turning & Stacking Machine
The welded mesh turning & stacking machine comes with a user-friend and straightforward control panel. It is designed to turn / flip the mesh in order to reduce the height during shipment or to be stored as stock in the factory to save space and is mainly required for meshes with bigger wire gauges.
JT-MTS Series Stacking Machine - Conveying Rollers
The conveying rollers will transport the finished stack of meshes out when the target sheets are achieved. (e.g. 30 sheets per stack)

If you have any interest in this stacking machine, try to visit Jiu Tai’s website: www.jiu-tai.com. And feel free to send inquiry or contact them to gain further details about this machinery.

 

 

Jiu Tai Precision Industries Corp.

No.36, Minyou St., Douliou Industrial Area, Yunlin, Taiwan

TEL: 886-5-5570911

FAX: 886-5-5570916

EMAIL: jt0911@jiu-tai.com.tw

A Guide To Choosing The Right Fishing Waders & Boots

Posted on by

Waders and wading boots are an important addition to your fly fishing gear. Wading will give you access to water that you would not otherwise be able to cast to. They will keep you dry and dedicated wading boots will provide you with secure traction when walking and wading through the water.

 

Waders and chest waders in particular, are becoming ever more popular with all fly anglers. Increasingly, Stillwater trout anglers are now taking advantage of the benefits of having a totally waterproof lower half to their clothing. Great for avoiding the dreaded ‘soggy bottom’ if you need to sit down on damp grass or wade just that little bit further than thigh waders will allow.

 

Which Type Of Waders Are Best For Me?

Choosing a pair of waders can be a little daunting. There are two main types:

 

These have a boot already welded to the bottom of the waders and are first choice if you need to get the waders on and off quickly and don’t have to walk too far. Perfect for a salmon beat with good vehicle access and easy wading conditions. The downsides are less size options – (many will find it hard to get a good overall fit) and the lack of ankle support compared with a purpose designed wading boot.

 

  • STOCKINGFOOT WADERS

These have welded neoprene socks to take your foot but require a pair of wading boots to be used over the top of them. Your foot is water proof but the boots are designed to be submerged in the water for long periods. There are wide choices of fittings available and the boots are very comfortable to walk long distances in. They also protect your feet from the rocks on the riverbed – it is easy to injure your ankle if your foot gets trapped between rocks and you stumble.

 

What Is The Best Material For The Waders?

 

  • BREATHABLE WADERS

It’s generally accepted that the versatility and comfort of breathable waders makes them an essential part of the fly fisher’s wardrobe. Waders now have a range of user-friendly functional design improvements made possible by recent technological advances in fabric performance and manufacturing techniques that enhance durability and wearer satisfaction.

 

A range of breathable fabric technologies are used in our wader range – here are some examples:-

 

  1. GORE-TEX – The best known brand of waterproof, breathable and windproof fabric, licensed exclusively to Simms for use in waders. You can expect the highest standards of performance from any product bearing the Goretex label.
  2. H2No – This is Patagonia’s high performance breathable membrane designed to be used in combination with their HydroStorm fabrics and Deluge DWR (durable water repellence). H2No pressure tests at 20,000mm when new and 10,000mm after being subjected to Patagonias own Killer Wash Test that replicates many years real world use.
  3. F 3.5 Fabric Technology – Used in Vision’s Ikon waders to give a pressure test of 13,000mm and breathability of 5,500g/m2/24hrs
  4. Vapour-Tec – used in Snowbee’s new ‘Soft Touch’ breathable wader technology, it gives superior breathability of 4000g/m2/24hrs and hydrostatic water pressure resistance of up to 20,000mm.

 

  • NON-BREATHABLE WADERS

We also stock a range of waders made from Neoprene, PVC and Nylon materials. These are boot foot designs and are available with studded and cleated soles. They offer a less expensive option for infrequent fishers, emergency use for flooding and garden pond maintenance etc.

 

  1. Neoprene – This material has great insulation properties and is very durable, perfect for cold conditions particularly for this less active angler.
  2. PVC & Nylon – These models offer affordable and robust waders, they are lighter than neoprene waders but lack insulation.

 

Choosing The Best Fit Possible

Waders that fit correctly will be far more comfortable and last longer – a major advantage of premium brand waders is the wider range of sizes on offer. It is possible to have waders made to measure with some brands – please enquire at our stores for details. Aim to have a minimum of loose material whilst ensuring that you are not stressing the seams if you crouch down. The same applies to the neoprene feet – if they are too tight, they will become uncomfortable and too loose, you will have folds of neoprene inside your wading boots that will compromise the fit of your boots.

 

Repairing Waders

Unfortunately all waders are susceptible to puncture and tear damage on the riverbank and care is needed to ensure this is kept to a minimum. Minor repairs to waders can be made in the field or at home, we recommend more serious tears and large damaged areas are dealt with by the manufacturer.

 

  • BREATHABLE WADERS

Here’s how to repair minor damage.

 

  1. Dry the waders inside and out. Then turn them inside out and try to locate the puncture. If this is not visible to the naked eye, spray Stormsure Leak Doctor in the area and look for any dark patches that appear. These indicate an area of damage – mark by circling with a marker pen.
  2. If you are in the field apply a thin coating of Loon UV wader repair to the area (away from sunlight) and expose to either sunlight or a UV torch light to cure. If you are indoors use a thin coating of Aquasure and leave the repair on a level surface overnight to cure. Avoid allowing Aquasure contact with skin – use a brush or a polythene bag/glove as a barrier.
  3. If the puncture is large enough to allow glue to seep through to the outer surface of the waders, seal the hole with sticky tape on the outer surface first. Remove the tape when the Aquasure is fully cured.
  4. Continue fishing!

 

  • NON-BREATHABLE WADERS

These can be repaired in the same way as above, but Stormsure is no longer used. You may find leaks by filling the waders with water and looking for signs of water seeping out, marking it with a waterproof pen and applying Aquasure to the affected area. Larger holes can be patched.

 

Looking After Your Waders

Here are some simple guidelines that will ensure you get optimum performance from your waders at all times.

 

  • BREATHABLE WADERS
  1. Dry your waders thoroughly inside and out before storage. As the neoprene feet do not breathe you will need to turn the feet completely inside out to achieve this. Leaving them damp will allow mould to get established – the first sign of this is the tape that goes around the seams will become detached as the mould attacks the glue. Avoid this by keeping them dry and clean.
  2. To ensure maximum breathability you will need to wash your waders regularly in a detergent free soap based cleaner – we recommend Nikwax Tech Wash. It will revive both breathability and water repellence. Nikwax can be used in a washing machine in accordance with the garments washing instructions. Bear in mind that to function correctly breathable fabrics must be clean to allow the passage of water vapour through the material.
  3. Use Revivex spray to restore the water repellence of the waders outer surface after washing – water should bead off the fabric surface when you emerge from the water. If your waders look dark when you come out of the water they have absorbed water and need to be treated.
  4. Store waders on a hanger in a cool dry place away from direct sunlight. Ensure there is no possibility of rodents getting to them.

 

  • NON-BREATHABLE WADERS
  1. Dry waders thoroughly after each use, turn inside out, dry, and then reverse.
  2. Store hanging up in a cool dry place.

 

Which Soles Are Best For Your Wading Boots?

There are two basic sole types in use on wading boots:

 

  1. Felt – This material has stood the test of time, and on some surfaces is unbeatable. Felt provides excellent grip on rock and gravel surfaces, particularly smooth rock often found on riverbeds. It’s not so good on muddy banks where the felt gets blocked by fine particles making the boots very slippery indeed. On snow it’s a nightmare – snow sticks to the felt and you get taller as you walk along! A number of metal studs screwed in around the edge of the sole (2cm from the edge) will help you maintain grip on slippery surfaces. Don’t overdo these – too many will impair grip. In some parts of the world felt soles are no longer permitted – this is because they take longer to dry and have been linked with transferring bio hazards between watercourses. Check before travelling.

 

  1. Rubber/Plastic Compound Soles – These soles provide superior grip on muddy banks and are the preferred choice for anglers who hike a long way to their fishing spot. They are more durable than felt and can be studded if required. For general use they are a better option for most situations but not all! Anglers who fish a lot may prefer to have two pairs of boots to match the terrain that will let you enjoy the best of both worlds!

 

Recommendable Waders Manufacturer

Neoprene fishing waders production is the specialty at PACIFIC EAGLE. The company has developed expertise and resources which are unparalleled. To get more information about Neoprene waders with boots, try to visit their website and feel free to send inquiry or contact with Pacific Eagle directly.

 

 

Article Source: https://www.sportfish.co.uk/fly-fishing-tackle-buying-guides/a-guide-to-waders-wading-boots

What Is A Tap Reseating Tool?

Posted on by

Tap reseating tools are plumbing tools used to repair water taps. They are hand tools, but there are attachments available that adapt them for use with a drill. There are two different designs of tap reseating tool, but the variation does not affect performance. They are for use on different tap designs.

 

Tap reseaters are used to fix one of the possible causes of a leaking tap. A leaking tap can be caused by multiple things and is dependent on the type of tap you have. A leaking tap is most commonly caused by general wear and tear of its parts.

 

Tap reseating tools repair compression washer taps. The flow of water from a compression washer tap is stopped and started by the movement of a rubber stopper (washer) against a hole (seat) inside the tap body. Tap reseating tools repair the seat of a tap.

 

What Is A Tap Reseating Tool Used For?

 

Tap reseaters fix that leaking tap that gets on everyone’s nerves. There are several things that can cause a dripping tap such as a damaged seat. A damaged seat can be easily fixed using a tap reseating tool.

 

The tap seat is subject to constant use. It is directly below the washer, which is moved up and down every time a tap is used. This movement, along with its constant contact with water, wears down the seat and causes corrosion.

 

The tap seat is especially delicate in hard water areas where lime scale can build up. The tap reseater can be used a number of times to grind down the seat, but eventually the whole tap will need to be replaced.

 

Tap reseating tools can also be used for repairing stopcocks in the same way they repair taps. Stopcocks are used to turn off the water supply to internal outlets.

 

How Does A Tap Reseating Tool Work?

 

A worn down or built-up seat causes unevenness. This means that when the washer is down there may be room for water to trickle through; causing a drip.

 

The tap reseating tool grinds away any unevenness on the seat so that it is smooth. This means that the washer is able to sit flush on the seat and there are no gaps for water to pass through.

 

Where to Find Excellent Tap Reseating Tools?

 

I recommend one manufacturer to you – that’s Maxclaw Tools Co., Ltd. The company specializes in kinds of tube tools, including tap reseating tools, tube cutting tools, tube bending tools, flaring tools, deburring tools, etc.

 

If you need more information about tap reseaters, please do not hesitate to check out their website. Find ideal tube tools at Maxclaw.

 

 

Article Source:

https://www.wonkeedonkeetools.co.uk/tap-reseaters/what-is-a-tap-reseater/

https://www.wonkeedonkeetools.co.uk/tap-reseaters/what-is-a-tap-reseater-used-for

How to Disconnect a Galvanized Pipe Fitting

Posted on by

Contemporary plumbers use copper and CPVC pipes to plumb residential water lines, but it’s still common to find galvanized steel water pipes in older homes and outdoor water lines. Galvanized pipes come in diameters from 1/2 inch to 8 inches, with 2-inch and larger pipes normally reserved for industrial use. The threaded pipes connect with threaded fittings. When you need to remove a fitting, you sometimes have your work cut out for you.

 

Single-Port Fittings

The concept with single-port fittings is simple: tighten your wrench around a spigot or cap connected to a galvanized pipe, and turn it counterclockwise to remove it. The reality is seldom that simple, however, because you will usually find the fitting rusted in place. At the very least, you’ll have to hold the pipe steady with one pipe wrench while you turn the fitting with another. You will need muscle power, too – lots of it. Once you get the fitting to move, the rest is easy, but you sometimes need to augment your best efforts with spray lubricant to accomplish removal.

 

Two-Port Fittings

Disconnecting a fitting with two ports, like a coupling or elbow, presents a dilemma. The question becomes how to loosen the fitting from one pipe without tightening it onto the other. The answer is that, to loosen the fitting from one pipe, you must first cut it loose from the other. You can cut through galvanized pipe with a hacksaw, but the job goes much faster if you use a reciprocating saw with a metal-cutting blade. Don’t forget to turn the water off before you cut into the pipe, or you’ll be dealing with an uncontrollable spray. You risk a scalding if the water is hot.

 

Tees and Crosses

The procedure for removing multiple-port fittings like tees and crosses is similar to disconnecting double-port fittings. You must cut all the pipes connected to the fitting but one. Making two cuts on each pipe to remove a small section gives you the clearance you need to turn the fitting. If you plan to replace the fitting, you’ll also have to replace the cut pipes, and replacing one extra pipe isn’t much more work. Therefore, it’s usually more expedient to simply cut all the pipes rather than trying to unscrew the fitting, which is probably locked onto the threads anyway.

 

Disassembling a Pipe System

When you assemble a system of galvanized pipes, you begin at one end and screw on pipes and fittings in order until you reach the other end. Disassembling the system is the reverse procedure, but you need a free end from which to start. That means cutting through at least one pipe unless there is a union somewhere in the system that you can take apart. When disassembling a system of old pipes that they won’t reuse, plumbers usually don’t go to the trouble of unscrewing them. They simply cut them apart with a reciprocating saw.

 

By the way, when mentioned galvanized pipe fittings, you maybe think where I can find them? The pipe fittings manufacturer that I recommend you is Golden Highope.

 

Golden Highope Industrial Inc. Ltd. offers galvanized and malleable iron pipe fittings, their products are designed, manufactured and shipped in compliance with API, ASTM, JIS, DIN, DAN, SMS and many other international quality standards from the spectroscopic tested. MECH is a China well-known brand of galvanized / malleable pipe fittings, which divided into two different series, American standard and British standard.

 

Learn more specifications of galvanized pipe fittings, welcome to visit Golden Highope’s website: www.golden-highope.com. Feel free to send inquiry to them.

 

 

Article Source: http://homeguides.sfgate.com/disconnect-galvanized-pipe-fitting-42178.html

What Are The Different Types of Directional Control Valve?

Posted on by

In this article, I will list down the advantages and disadvantages of sliding spool and poppet valve.

 

Types of Directional Control Valves:

Sliding Spool, Poppet / Diagram, Rotary Spool, Rotary Disc, Slide.

 

Here, I only introduce Sliding Spool Valve and Poppet Valve. Let’s learn more information about them below:

 

Sliding Spool Valves

 

Sliding spool valves are the most common directional control valves used in transmission of pneumatic power to the actuator. They are available in various forms and sizes.

 

Advantages:

 

The main advantages of spool valves with seals are:

 

  1. Simple maintenance.
  2. Fully balanced spool design allowing air to be without creating spool movement.
  3. Relatively simple to attach controls.
  4. Stroke limiters can be used.
  5. Available in suitable forms.
  6. Connected to any port

 

Disadvantages:

 

The main disadvantages of spool valves with seals are:

 

  1. Larger body size.
  2. Higher wear rates.
  3. Require lubrication.
  4. Continuous leakage.
  5. Not suitable for high pressure applications.
  6. Slower response time.
  7. Require a better quality air.

 

Poppet Valves

 

Poppet valves come in a wide variety of forms and are the most useful valve in pneumatic services. It can be used as the pilot section of a solenoid controlled valve. Poppet valve construction varies in accordance with the valve function and flow requirements.

 

Advantages:

 

The main advantages of poppet valves are:

 

  1. Can operate with lubricant free air.
  2. Can operate with inferior quality air.
  3. Leak free.
  4. Low wear.
  5. High flow rates.
  6. Rapid response.

 

Disadvantages:

 

  1. Cannot be serviced.
  2. Not suited to reverse porting.
  3. Relatively high operating forces.
  4. Air loss during change over.

 

If you need more information about directional control valves, I recommend that you can visit the website of ASHUN.

 

Ashun Fluid Power Co., Ltd. is a well-known manufacturer of specializing in kinds of hydraulic valves and hydraulic cylinders. Learn more details about directional control valves, please feel free to check out Ashun’s product pages and send inquiry to them.

 

 

Article Source: https://somemmec.wordpress.com/2013/03/11/what-are-the-different-types-of-directional-control-valve-list-down-the-advantages-and-disadvantages-of-sliding-spool-and-poppet-valve-with-their-sketches/

Do You Know What Liquid Crystal Polymer Is?

Posted on by

Liquid Crystal Polymer (LCP) – A relatively unique class of partially crystalline aromatic polyesters based on p-hydroxybenzoic acid and related monomers. Liquid crystal polymers are capable of forming regions of highly ordered structure while in the liquid phase. However, the degree of order is somewhat less than that of a regular solid crystal. Typically LCPs have outstanding mechanical properties at high temperatures, excellent chemical resistance, inherent flame retardancy and good weatherability. Liquid crystal polymers come in a variety of forms from sinterable high temperature to injection moldable compounds.

 

A number of liquid crystal polymers (LCPs) were produced in the 1970s which displayed order in the melt (liquid) phase analogous to that exhibited by non-polymeric liquid crystals. However, the commercial introduction of liquid crystal polymer resins did not occur until 1984, at that time liquid crystal polymers could not be injection molded. Today, liquid crystal polymers can be melt processed on conventional equipment at fast speeds with excellent replication of mold details and efficient use of regrind.

 

Characteristics of LCP

 

  • l Molecular chains align themselves when molded, and this generates a self-reinforcing effect, Thereby resulting in extremely high strength and elastic modulus.
  • Despite having a high elastic modulus, very much superior vibration absorbing characteristics are exhibited.
  • Linear expansion coefficient in the flow direction in particular is very small, exhibiting a value an order of magnitude less than conventional plastics and on a par with steel.
  • The thinner the product, the higher the proportion of the oriented surface layer, so greater strength and elastic modulus can be achieved the thinner the product.
  • Because of its microcrystalline structure, LCP possesses superior deflection temperature under load (180-26 0°), continuous usage temperature (200-24 00°C), and solder heat resistance (2600°C for over 10 s, 310 0°C for 10 s), despite its relatively low melting point.

 

Applications in LCP

 

  • Automotive industry: Automobile combustion system components, burning pumps, insulation components, precision components and electronic components, etc.
  • Electrical and Electronics: High-density connector, coil planes, bobbins, the substrate carrier, capacitors case, socket, surface-mount electronic components, electronic packaging materials, printed circuit boards, braking equipment and lighting equipment, etc.
  • Home-use Electric Appliances: Microwave oven kitchen containers and food containers, etc.
  • Mechanical industry: Distillation column filler, valves, pumps, oil well equipment, measurement equipment parts, seals and bearings, etc.
  • Medical industry: Surgical equipment, intubations, knives, sterilization trays, laparoscopy and dental materials, etc.

 

Manufacturer of LCP

 

For quality liquid crystal polymer LCP, Prochase Enterprise Co., Ltd. is one of the excellent choices of manufacturers for customers. If you need more information about LCP, try to check out Prochase’s website: www.prochase.com and let the company know your demands.

 

 

Article Source:

http://www.miltonplastics.com/index.php/Picture/show/9.html

https://plastics.ulprospector.com/generics/17/liquid-crystal-polymer-lcp

GSM Antennas and Their Uses

Posted on by

What Is A GSM Antenna?

An antenna is an electrical device which converts electrical currents into radio waves and vice versa. It is an essential part of a radio allowing a radio frequency (RF) signal generated by a radio device to be sent or received on a particular frequency or frequencies. A GSM antenna can operate on 824-894 MHz, 890-960MHz, 1710-1880MHz and 1850-1990MHz. Often, antennas can operate on more than one frequency range. In this case they are often referred to as dual band (2 frequencies), tri band (3 frequencies) or quad band (4 frequencies).

 

Why Do I Need An Antenna?

The GSM antenna receives or transmits the RF signal – without it the radio system will not work. Antennas are used in all systems using wireless equipment such as key fobs for cars, garage door entry systems, RFID tags, baby monitors and mobile phones.

 

How Does A GSM Antenna Work?

An antenna is made using a conductive strip or wire usually made of metal. This allows an electrical current to pass through which creates a magnetic current. Depending on the frequency, this will create a wavelength which is a certain size. The lower the frequency the longer the wavelength and this will make a GSM signal transmits further.

 

What Should I Look For In An Antenna?

Antennas come in different shapes and sizes and depend on how they are being used. Firstly however, they radiate in 2 ways. The first is the more common – OMNI directional antenna. This allows a 360° radiation pattern so as to transmit and receive in any direction in a circular pattern. Directional antennas transmit and receive RF signals in a limited direction and need to point in the general direction of the other radio.

 

As examples, an antenna on a walkie talkie would be OMNI directional, giving an all-round coverage. A TV antenna mounted on the roof of a house is a Yagi antenna which is directional – pointing in the direction of a TV transmitting power. This allows a concentration of signal to be sent or received.

 

How Many Types Of GSM Antennas Are There?

 

Once an OMNI directional or directional antenna has been determined, there are 6 generally accepted styles of GSM antenna. These depend on the use.

 

  • Embedded antennas are used for when the antenna is being fitted inside equipment.
  • Through hole mount antennas are used in permanent installations and fit via a mounting bolt.
  • Magnetic mount antennas are usually reserved for temporary installations or in evaluation kits.
  • Direct connect antennas screw directly to GSM modems or the back of GSM terminal equipment. External or base station mount GSM antennas often fit on walls and are used in remote locations
  • For wireless telemetry or alarm panel installations.
  • Adhesive mount antennas stick onto glass or other nonmetallic surfaces.

 

Where to Find Ideal GSM Antenna Manufacturer?

The manufacturer that I recommend to you is Evercom Communication Technology Co., Ltd...

 

Evercom is a leading supplier of mobile antennas company throughout the world. Established in 1993, it specializes in design and manufacture of WIFI, MIMO, GPS, UMTS, DVBT, UHF / VHF, GSM antenna, CB antenna mount, and accessories etc.

 

Evercom offers innovative design, quality manufacturing and reliable performance. If you need more information about GSM antenna or other antennas, try to visit the website of Evercom: www.evercomtech.com to obtain the details you need.

 

 

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/6838580

Sanitary Ball Valve Overview

Posted on by

The sanitary ball valve is a valve with a spherical disc, the part of the valve which controls the flow through it. The sphere has a hole, or port, through the middle so that when the port is in line with both ends of the valve, flow will occur. When the valve is closed, the hole is perpendicular to the ends of the valve, and flow is blocked.  The handle or lever will be in line with the port position letting you see the valve’s position. The ball valve along with the butterfly valve and plug valve, are part of the family of quarter turn valves.

 

Using ball valves in sanitary applications has some pluses and minuses. Perhaps the greatest benefit of using sanitary ball valves is that they usually work to achieve perfect shutoff even after years of disuse. They are therefore an excellent choice for shutoff applications and are often preferred to sanitary butterfly valves, diaphragm valves or seat valves. They do not offer the fine control that may be necessary in throttling applications but are sometimes used for this purpose. The other big advantage ball valves have is that they are the highest pressure rated sanitary valves on the market.

 

Principles of Operation

 

Sanitary ball valves, as the name implies, have a ball with a hole drilled through the center swivel mounted with the valve body. When the hole in the ball is oriented in the same direction as the pipe, this will result in full flow rate. As the hole in the ball is oriented away from the direction of the pipe, the flow rate will be restricted and finally cut off completely when the hole is oriented 90 degrees to the pipe direction.

 

Automation

 

Like sanitary butterfly valves, most sanitary ball valves can be highly automated.  Ball valves are offered with stainless steel actuators for all sizes.  There are different switch packages available which to mount to the actuators. Double rack and pinion pneumatic actuators are the standard for ball valves, because they are ¼ turn valves.  Also the same as the butterfly valves, ball valves have a large offering of different ¼ turn actuators on the market.

 

Other Features and Benefits

 

Many different manufacturers offer their version of a ball valve although the operational features are very similar. In the market of ball valves there are many different alternative choices so that potential customers are easily able to find another choice. For this reason it is important to decipher a customer’s needs for the application at hand. This will make it possible to choose the one that will be a quality performer at a good price.

 

Like the butterfly valve, a ball valve is available in 316 as well as AL6XN and Titianium material. This type of construction material is not available with all manufacturers, as well as, it can be difficult to find MTRs and C of C’s to go along with the desired valve.  There are multiple handle styles that are offered with the ball valve as well, such as, pull stop with a locking mechanism and trigger handles. Ball valves have the luxury of coming with many different connection styles in order to be able to fit into a customized sanitation process line.

 

Are Sanitary Ball Valves Really Clean?

 

As we discussed with the butterfly valve. What is considered “sanitary” is relative to each end user. The fact that sanitary ball valves are constructed of 316 stainless steel, have FDA approved elastomers and have Tri-clamp or tube OD butt weld ends puts them in the sanitary realm. But you really cannot truly clean it in place. Ball valves have cavities and crevices behind the ball that gather product when the valve in being actuated. These areas do not get clean during CIP. To truly clean the valve, you have to take it apart.  Even with newer designs of ball valves having FDA approved cavity fillers to help limit product build up on the inside of the vale it is inevitable that product will still accumulate around the outside of the ball and orifices. Because of the sanitary ball valve do not carry the 3A rating.

 

TARGET VALVE is the professional valves manufacturer in Taiwan. You can find a variety of valve products on their website. Such as 1 pc ball valve, economic ball valves, flanged ball valves, multiway ball valves, and sanitary ball valves etc. Learn more details, welcome to check out their website and feel free to contact them directly.

 

 

Article Source: https://hollandaptblog.com/2014/01/17/1106/

How to Use a Finishing Nailer in Woodworking

Posted on by

A Quality Finish Nailer Can Speed Up the Assembly Process

Apach Finishing Nailer

Finishing nailers are designed to nail moldings and smaller trim boards onto assemblies with ease. The thin finish nails can be driven through the trim board into hardwoods, softwoods, plywood or other manufactured wood products such as MDF with a very small footprint, leaving behind a very small nail hole that can be filled using wood filler before or after applying the finish. The thin nail is also far less likely to split the delicate trim board than a larger framing or other types of nail or wood screw and typically holds much better than an adhesive.

 

The finish nailer is also much faster than nailing finish nails using a hammer, allowing the trim carpenter or woodworker to be far more productive. The finish nailer has the added advantage of being able to be used one-handed, freeing up the other hand for holding the trim or molding in place.

 

Features of a Finish Nailer

Most finish nailers use nails ranging from 15-18 gauges, and the style of nailer is either straight or angled (meaning that the magazine that holds the nails beneath the nailer is either perpendicular to the nailing direction or at an angle of about 20 degrees). Nails for these nailers come in strips of 50-100, usually in boxes of about 2000 in total, and usually, range from 1-1/4 to 2-1/2 inches in length. Smaller finish nailers, commonly called brad nailers, will shoot very thin brads ranging from 5/8-inch up to 1-1/2 inches in length.

 

Safety Features

Finish nailers have a safety nose that must be depressed before the trigger of the nailer will engage and be able to be pulled.

 

Most finish nailers include a rubber, anti-marring tip that can be slipped over the tip of the nose to prevent the nailer from damaging the wood or molding being nailed.

 

To use the finish nailer, position the tip of the nailer on the trim board at the location where you want the nail to be driven. Then, adjust the position of the nailer to drive the nail in the proper direction.

 

In most cases, the nailer’s cylinder and the tip should line up perpendicular to the face of the board, allowing the nail to be driven squarely into the board. In other cases, though, you may need to angle the nail to catch sufficient wood behind the trim or molding, so adjust your angle of the nailer accordingly.

 

Once the nailer is aligned properly, push the nailer gently toward the wood, depressing the safety nose of the nailer, and pull the trigger. A finish nail should be driven directly into the trim at the desired angle.

 

As with all power tools, be sure to wear appropriate safety equipment, including safety glasses, hearing protection where necessary and appropriate clothing.

 

Pneumatic or Cordless?

Finish nailers come in two styles, pneumatic and cordless. Pneumatic finish nailers are powered by compressed air via a hose from an air compressor. Conversely, cordless finish nailers utilize a combination of a rechargeable battery and a compressed air canister to drive the nail. Obviously, the cordless unit has the advantage of not being tethered via a hose, but because of the onboard battery, the cordless units tend to be a bit heavier.

 

Costs are also a concern for both types of nailers.

 

With a pneumatic nailer, you obviously need a decent air compressor and hoses to run the distance between the compressor and the area being nailed, so the initial costs are much higher than a cordless unit. On the other hand, with the cordless, you don’t have such a large up-front expense, but you do have some consumables, specifically the need to purchase more air canisters when the current canisters run out. If the required canister isn’t available at your local lumberyard or home center, you may need to order more online or else your cordless finish nailer will be unusable.

 

Dealing with Problems

When working with a finish nailer, you want the head of the finish nail to be sunk just below the surface of the trim board or molding so that it can easily be filled with nail filler. If the nails aren’t being fully sunk, you can drive them in using a hammer and a nail set, but that is extra work that you shouldn’t have to do.

 

The problem typically is caused by either insufficient pressure from the air compressor, or the depth adjustment dial on the finish nailer needs to be rotated until the nails are driven to the appropriate depth. Check the operating manual for your particular finish nailer model for instructions on how to modify the depth adjustment.

 

One other problem that occasionally arises is a jam in the head of the finish nailer. Nearly all finish nailers have an easy-to-open latch on the front of the nailer that can be opened and the jammed nail(s) removed. For safety, disconnect the nailer from the air compressor or take out the battery and/or air cartridge before opening the latch to remove a jam.

 

Apach Industrial Co., Ltd. is the well-known manufacturer and supplier of finishing nailer. Their air finish nailers are designed to accomplish carpentry finish work quickly and efficiently. Especially Apach new angled finish nailer can be used for bedding, cabinets, siding, upholstery and other applications. If you have any interest in finishing nailer and air finish nailers etc. products, try to send inquiry to Apach. They will offer you the best price and superior high quality.

 

 

Article Source: https://www.thespruce.com/how-to-use-a-finish-nailer-3536707