Best Eyelash Perm Kit for You

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As Lash Lifts are becoming more and more popular, we’ve been asked, “What’s the best eyelash perm kit?”

If you’ve tried false eyelashes or eyelash extensions you noticed the damage they do to your natural lashes. Fortunately now there is an easier way to get flirty eyes without using fake lashes on your lids: An Eyelash Perm.

It can make your natural lashes look perfectly curled and you won’t even need mascara. As soon as I learned you can do them at home, I began my quest to find the best eyelash perm kit!

 

WHAT IS AN EYELASH PERM?

An Eyelash Perm, also known as a Lash Lift, is a semi-permanent beauty procedure that creates a flipped up curl in your natural eyelashes.

The treatment originated in Asia, and quickly became popular in the United States. The eyelash perm will last the natural life cycle of your lashes, generally 2-3 months before a full new set has grown in.

Getting a lash perm is a great idea for people with straight lashes, or those who frequently use eyelash curlers, fake lashes, or lash extensions. Opting for a lash perm instead will result in perfectly flirty lashes 24/7.

 

HOW DOES AN EYELASH PERM KIT WORK?

eyelash before after

Though there are small variations by brand, eyelash perm kits work exactly the way they do when performed in a salon. First you coat eyelashes with a special adhesive and then wrap them around foam rollers or silicone pads. This holds them in the curled position.

Next, you apply a perming solution or cream your eyelashes and allow that to sit for several minutes. After the perming chemicals are done, a neutralizing solution is added and allowed to sit.

And then voila: you are left with beautifully curled natural looking lashes! We recommend watching a few YouTube tutorials on eyelash perms before trying it out a DIY lash lift on yourself.

On our quest for the perfect curled lashes, we tested out a few products to find out which one is the best eyelash perm kit! Keep reading to see which one you should try out yourself!

DOLLY’S EYE LASH WAVE LOTION SET 

Dolly's Lash Kit

 

The Dolly’s Eye Lash Wave Lotion set is a very popular choice for best eyelash perm kit. The kit includes everything you’ll need to perform an eyelash perm, and it’s a great option for beginners.

The DIY lash lift kit is easy to use, and includes:

  • 1 Perming Lotion
  • 1 Setting Lotion
  • 1 Nourishing Agent,
  • Eyelash Glue
  • Silicon Pads in medium and large sizes

I found that since I have smaller eyes, the medium size silicone pad was a good fit, but you can easily trim with scissors if you have smaller eyes.

This kit was easy to use, and working one eye at a time I was able to finish within 2 hours. Since it was my first time using a eyelash perm kit, I think it should go faster next time. This kit is enough for about 6-8 treatments since I applied the creams heavily.

Overall I think this Dolly’s Lash kit gave great results for the price, and my lashes looked beautifully curled for about 9 weeks until a touch up was needed.

 

EYELASH LASHES CURLING PERMING SOLUTION FULL TOOLS WITH CASE

Lash Perm Kit

This eyelash perm kit sold by WindMax blew me away with how many components they include. At first I was a little overwhelmed by everything given, but it all arrived exactly as described and in a cute little carrying case. The package includes:

  • 1 x Sticky Rods, L size, 32 Pieces/Sheet
  • 1 x Fashion Case
  • 3 x Eyelash Treatment First Cream 5ml
  • 3 x Eyelash Perming Solution 5m
  • 2 x Eyelash Cleanser 5ml
  • 2 x Eyelash Restore 5ml
  • 1 x Eyelash originated Glue 15ml
  • 1 x Eyelash Growth Liquid 10ml
  • 20 x Disposable Eyelash Mascara Comb
  • 20 x Micro Brushes (Random Design)1 x Pink Protein
  • 1 x Tweezers (Curved)
  • 2 x Silicone Rods, S/M/L each 2 Pieces
  • 5 x Lint-free Eyelashes Under Patch Pad
  • 1 x Sticky Rods, S size, 32 Pieces/Sheet
  • 1 x Sticky Rods, M size, 32 Pieces/Sheet

Instead of using the silicone pads on my top lash line, I used them under the eye. Then I used the glue to attach the rod to my eyelid, and then glued my lashes to the rod. The curved tweezers were very helpful for this part.

Next I applied solutions A-D in the order described, letting them sit and cleansing in between. I liked the A-D labels which let you go more quickly when you’ve got one eye shut. This kit includes an extra step “D” which is a lash restoring conditioner, which I really liked.

Overall my final results with this DIY lash lift were very good. My lashes looked a bit more unrealistically curly from using the roller instead, but I didn’t mind. I did like the variety of sizes of rollers and accessories that are included with this kit, and it is certainly a great value for money.

The only thing I disliked is that the perm did not hold as long, and after 6 weeks my lashes were ready for another treatment. However since this kit would work for about 10 treatments, it is still a good deal.

 

LOMANSA PROFESSIONAL PERMING KIT EYELASH

Lomansa Lash Perm Kit

This Eyelash Perm Kit from Lomansa is another popular choice for lash primers. The set includes foam rollers instead of silicone pads, and I was happy to test them out since I had success with the rollers in the previous kit.

The kit includes:

  • 3 bottles of the perming solution
  • 3 bottles of neutralizing lotion
  • 2 bottles of eyelash cleanser
  • 2 bottles of the restore solution.
  • lash glue
  • foam rollers  in 3 sizes.

Overall I had a harder time working with the foam rollers in this kit for some reason, they were not attaching with the lash glue as easily as with some other kits. I was also missing the labels on the different solutions, as I could only tell them apart by the colors.

Finally the directions included were not easy to read, and though I had no trouble with the process since I had done it before, new users may have issues. This kit gave me nice results which lasted 6 weeks, but it took lots of messing with the rollers and glue to get started. Overall it is not a bad kit if you are experienced, but you may need more patience to get started.

 

DOLLY’S LASH EYELASH PREMIUM PACK KIT

Dolly's Lash Premium Pack

The Dolly’s Lash Eyelash Premium Kit looks very high end, with a stylish box. In fact this kit is frequently used by professionals who will be doing eyelash perms for clients. The box is really sturdy, and has a drawer feature to store all the products. This set includes:

  • Perm Lotion x 15 Sachets
  • Setting Lotion x 15 Sachets
  • Nourishing Lotion x 15 Sachets
  • Silicon Pads Size Small, Medium, & Large (5 sets of each)
  • Dolly’s Lash Clear Glue 5ml = 1 Bottle

I was already impressed with Dolly’s lashes from using their smaller kit, but the premium version was much nicer. Everything is nicely packaged, and the labels are easy to understand.

I also liked that this set came with small silicone pads which fit my eyes better. Using sachets to apply the solutions made the process easier, and it will keep the products fresh much longer. My lashes looked great for a full 10 weeks, and I was happy I had 14 full treatments left.

THE BEST EYELASH PERM KIT FOR EVERYBODY?

Overall, I tested out four of the most popular kits on the market to figure out which one is the overall best eyelash perm kit — and one stood out as the clear winner!

DOLLY’S LASH EYELASH PREMIUM PACK KIT

Dolly's Lash Premium Pack

Dolly’s Lash Premium kit won hands down. The box is great to store everything, the instructions are easy, and you get lots of treatments for your money.

For the price you would pay at a salon for one or two treatments, with this kit you can have 15! The sachets are easier to use than bottles, and will keep the product fresh for a long time.

This kit is on the pricier side, but the amount of treatments you get justifies the heftier investment. Dolly’s smaller eyelash perm kit is also a great pick if you want to try out Dolly’s products without the 15 treatments commitment.

Hope you’ve enjoyed reading about the best eyelash perm kit, and happy lash perming!

If you need more information about Dolly’s eyelash perm kit, I recommend that you can visit Bella’s website: www.bella-tw.com. The company offers a variety of eyelash perm kit and permanent makeup devices for customers. Feel free to check out Bella’s product pages to find ideal cosmetics.

 

Article Source: https://hairbrushstraightener.com/buying-guides/best-eyelash-perm-kit/

Useful Small Accessories – ID Badge Lanyards. And The Best Lanyards Supplier for You

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What is a Lanyard?

 

A lanyard is a cord or strap that is worn around the neck to hold an identification badge, whistle, keys or other small object. You can see lanyards in use everywhere by businesses, schools, hospitals, at special events, conventions, reunions, and in many recreational activities.

 

ID Badge Lanyards can also be used as an advertising tool with a customized logo or name printed on the strap. They come in various colors and types with different hardware attached at the bottom for holding an ID badge, whistle or the like.

 

Lanyards can be made of cord, cotton, nylon or polyester twill. The cord type is the least expensive but cannot be printed because it lacks the flat surface of the strap-type. Some have a small bulb containing a retractable reel to use with an ID badge or keys. They might also have breakaway connectors so that if the lanyard gets caught it will release before it pulls on the neck.

 

Lanyards Can Be Made of Various Materials

 

The strap-type lanyards can be made of cotton, polytwill or nylon and are often printed with a company or team name, product or logo. There are generally three different printing methods used: hot stamping, screen printing, or dye sublimation.

 

To hot stamp a metal plate is designed according to artwork provided by the customer. The plate is heated then a color film is placed over the lanyard. The plate is applied with pressure, which heats the film, transferring the color and design to the material. Hot stamping uses a single color and is the most economical. Hot stamping is suitable for many applications such as trade shows, reunions, student badges and so on.

 

Screen-printing provides a higher quality result that is more durable. A fine mesh screen is made from the customer’s artwork. The screen is laid on top of the material and the colored ink is applied over the screen. A squeegee pushes the ink through the mesh screen to create the design beneath on the fabric. Heat cures the ink for a high-resolution result.

 

Dye sublimation is a superior printing process that can create multicolored, highly detailed designs. With this method the customer’s design is transferred to a fine paper that uses dye sublimation inks. The paper is placed on the lanyard and pressure and heat are applied, causing the image to become enmeshed into the material. The design remains smooth because of the method used, allowing for an image that is less prone to abrasion or fading.

 

A lanyard can also come with different hardware. The O-ring is common for using with a whistle or keys. It may also have a split-connector so that it is easily removed and snapped back into place. A swivel snaphook is good for ID badges that have a rectangular hole at the top, and the bulldog clip is the type that when squeezed, both serrated jaws open, similar to how an alligator clip works.

 

Where to Find The Best Neck Lanyards Supplier?

 

Lanyards are inexpensive and can be purchased in bulk for promotional or professional use, or in single units. Many outlets are available online, easily found with any search engine.

 

I recommend that you can visit the website of the excellent ID badge lanyard manufacturer – Shuen Fuh Enterprise Co., Ltd... This company provides a variety of lanyards and other office supply items for you to select. If you need further details about Shuen Fuh, please feel free to send inquiry or contact them directly.

 

 

Article Source: http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-a-lanyard.htm

Looking for Hydraulic Index Table and Rotary Table? TANSHING is The Best Supplier for You.

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Tanshing Hydraulic Index Table Supplier

TANSHING Accurate Industrial Co., Ltd. is a specialist in the design and manufacture of a wide range of CNC rotary tables and hydraulic index tables. The company is dedicated to research and development and technological innovation continually.

 

From design, precision machining, to rigorous quality control, great care is taken to ensure an international quality level. TANSHING’s products are widely recognized in both domestic and overseas markets. The innovative dual lead worm drive system has been patented in Taiwan which is indisputable proof of the superior R&D capability of TANSHING.

 

TANSHING has been certified by AQSR ISO-9001 (U.S.A.). In order to ensure very high precision parts, they have invested heavily in various advanced machining equipment. 90% of their in-house parts machining allows TANSHING to fully control the parts accuracy, which provides a solid foundation for the superior quality of CNC rotary tables and index tables.

 

TAHSHING has always dedicated itself to pursuing higher levels of technology. It is always looking to the future, to new challenges and to new levels of high technology.

 

If you want to get more information about TANSHING hydraulic index table or other excellent products, try to check out their website: www.tanshing.com to obtain the details you need.

 

 

Tanshing Accurate Industrial Co., Ltd.

No. 1-1 Lane 165, Sec. 1, Tan-Shing RD., Tan-Tzu, Taichung 427, Taiwan

TEL: +886-4-2538-4978

FAX: +886-4-2538-4980

E-MAIL: tanshing@ms16.hinet.net

Table Saw vs. Circular Saw – Which One Do You Buy First?

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So you’ve got a looming project ahead that you’ve decided to tackle, and you’re even willing to drop a little cash on some brand new tools to help you get the job done right.

 

But where to begin? The marketing world will have you believe that you need this, that, the other, and everything in between to even think about getting a job done. Naturally, you start questioning yourself and your tools: ‘Well, I’ve got a decent circular saw … do I need a table saw for that front deck project?’

 

This is totally understandable.

 

Yes, there are certainly specific uses for each and every tool out there. And yes, it’s justifiable to want the tools that’ll help you get the job done as easily, efficiently, and professionally as possible.

 

Hopefully, this is where we can be of assistance; helping you determines what you need, and what you don’t.

 

In this article, we’ll rekindle the old, never-ending argument of circular saw vs. table saw: Which one is better? When do you use one or the other? Are there things one can do that the other can’t?

 

Tune in, and find out for yourself.

 

Overview: A Tale of Two Saws – Circular Saw vs. Table Saw

To be straightforward, there is nothing a table saw can do that a good circular saw cannot do.

 

Now, this probably makes the dilemma seem very simple, right? With the choice being to obviously go with a circular saw?

 

Mmm, not exactly. What that first statement should read is this: ‘There’s nothing a table saw can do, that a good circular saw cannot do at the hands of someone who knows how to use it.”

 

Contrary to what multiple ‘expert’ DIY’ers (and probably even some professionals) will say, a circular saw can in fact rip lumber, make cross-cuts, precision miters, tenon/dado/lap joints, inset boards, etc.

 

The key difference is that to the novice user, these precision cuts will be a fair bit easier to make with a table saw, than with a circular saw.

 

Note that we emphasized the term novice user. In order for a circular saw to be used to its full potential and make accurate rips, miters, etc., you’ll need to use a couple extra tools with it like a speed square, shooting board, or edge guide (we’ll talk a bit more about these shortly). This is where things may get a bit overwhelming for novices.

 

With a table saw, you can rely more on the tool to make these precision cuts, rather than on yourself. There’s a little less room for error, so to speak. Simply set the miter or rip fence (depending on whether you’re making rip cuts or cross-cuts), and there’s no doubt you’ll get a perfect cut.

 

The Circular Saw: Range of Use

Like we said, there’s really nothing a circular saw can’t do in the realm of general woodworking.

 

However, you’ve got to know your way around the tool in order to get the most out of it.

 

Even for standard 90-degree cross-cuts on narrow pieces of material like 2×4’s, we recommend using a speed square to ensure a perfect, precision cut. Measure the length that you want your cut at, mark it off with the square, then position your blade and use the square as a guide against the circular saw’s fence. If done correctly, this will produce a perfect, 90-degree square cut every time.

 

The speed square can also be used as a protractor to mark off angled cuts. Simply use the corner of the square as a pivot point, then use the angled side of the square to measure off the exact degree you need. Then you can use the square again as a fence guide to run a perfectly straight cut down the angled line.

 

For ripping boards, unless you’ve got some otherworldly ability that allows you to run a circular saw by eye on a laser-straight line, you’ll want to use a shooting board, or ‘rip-fence jig’.

 

The shooting board is a homemade jig that’s built to the exact dimensions of whatever circular saw you’re using. It acts as a fence guide that allows you to make perfectly straight rips, at whatever length you need. If you make the jig right (it’s super easy), you’ll be able to rip long pieces of lumber or plywood with all the ease and accuracy of a table saw. (Instead of going into a lengthy segment on what exactly a shooting board/rip-fence jig is, here’s a great video on how to make one for your circular saw).

 

Joinery, knotching, and insetting boards is done by simply adjusting the depth of cut on the circular saw blade.

 

For example, to create an inset on a section of 2×4, simply mark off the desired section to the appropriate length, adjust your blade to the appropriate depth (no more than ½ the thickness of the board you’re insetting), and use the speed square to make parallel cuts about 1/16” apart over the entire length of the section. Then, use a hammer and chisel to knock out the material and create the inset.

 

Lastly, most all decent circular saws have an adjustable plane, allowing for angled cuts up to 45-degrees – just like an expensive compound miter saw.

 

The Table Saw: Range of Use

The table saw is an extremely efficient tool because it makes cross-cutting and ripping boards a breeze.

 

Like we just mentioned, a circular saw can certainly be used to rip or cross-cut, but it takes a special jig and generally a keen hand to really make a great, precision cut.

 

On the other hand, you’d have to kind of go out of your way to screw up a cut with a table saw, as long as the fence is positioned and set correctly. (Here’s an excellent video on the ease and advantages of a good table saw, and how to properly use one).

 

Of course, one of the big downfalls of a table saw is its size and non-portability. Unlike a circular saw which you can use just about anywhere, you’ve got to have a bit of a workspace in order to operate a table saw.

 

Price is also a factor worth mentioning: for overall quality, a circular saw will always be less expensive than its table saw counterpart.

 

What we like about both, and top picks for each kind

 

It’s actually pretty tough for us go so far as to say the circular saw is ‘better’ than the table saw. Or vice-versa, for that matter.

 

Like we explained, both saws are fantastic tools that, under the right hands, will produce excellent results.

 

TRUPRO-TEC is a Taiwan-based specialized manufacturer in the design and production of wood table saw machines. And the company always devotes itself to update technology and procedures to keep all machines best quality, high efficiency and durable. With vast experience and knowledge, Trupro-tec is able to supply the most comprehensive range of table sawing machinery to meet and satisfy the ever-changing clients’ demands. If you are looking for a table saw, welcome to visit TRUPRO-TEC: www.trupro-machine.com or email your question.

 

 

Article Source: http://www.thesawguy.com/table-saw-vs-circular-saw/

How to Choose a Right Reverse Osmosis System?

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The water filter market is saturated with competition and whichever type of water filter you’re looking to buy, you’ll be met with an abundance of options. It’s difficult to decide on a brand or a filter model, especially if you’re new to the topic of water filtration. Choosing a reverse osmosis water filter is all the more difficult, given that there are systems with different filtration stages, membranes, filtration capacities, etc. To help you get more familiar with your options and understand the differences you may encounter in your search for a reverse osmosis water filter, we offer a quick RO filter buying guide that you can consult while you’re trying to find the best reverse osmosis filter for your home.

Triwin RO System

 

RO Filter Buying Guide Quick Facts

 

There are certain questions that you need to address before buying any RO filter for your home, office, restaurant or dental practice:

 

  • What is my water supply like?
  • What is my water pressure like?
  • How much space do I have?
  • What is my budget?

 

Water Quality and Pressure

 

By answering the questions related to the quality of your water, you’ll know what contaminants you need to remove from your tap water, and this will give you further information about how many filtration stages should your RO system have or whether or not you need an alkaline filter too. If your tap water has many types of sediment, it’s chlorinated and acidic, you may want to look into a reverse osmosis filter that is equipped with sediment pre-filters and activated carbon filters that can help reduce sediments and get rid of chlorine from your water supply. This will not only improve the overall quality of your tap water, but it will also make sure your RO membrane will not clog and stay in top shape. If your tap water is acidic in its unfiltered state, you’ll need to invest in a reverse osmosis system that contains a remineralizer filter or alkaline filter as well. RO produces slightly acidic water, so an alkaline filter can replenish your water with trace amounts of healthy minerals that were removed during the filtration process, thus, correcting the pH balance of your RO water.

 

If your water pressure is not at optimum levels (look for the water pressure requirements of the RO system you’re thinking of buying), you’ll need to invest in a system with a booster pump.

 

Space and Budget Considerations

 

The size of an RO filter depends on many factors (how many filters it contains, how big is the RO storage tank, etc.), but you need to make sure you have enough space wherever you’re thinking of installing it.

 

Another aspect to consider is your budget. There can be very huge price differences between RO systems depending on their intended purpose, filtered water output, complexity, etc. Commercial RO systems can be double or even triple the price of domestic water filters, but they also have an hourly filtered water output that can amount to hundreds of liters of water. You also need to think about maintenance costs, which usually mean the costs of replacing the pre and post-filters and the RO membrane. It’s a good idea to run the numbers and see how much you’ll need to spend annually on filter replacements.

 

In a nutshell, these are the most important aspects to consider before buying a reverse osmosis filter. Hopefully, we’ve managed to make your search for an RO filter a little less daunting and a little more efficient.

 

Recommendable RO System Supplier

 

Triwin Watertec Co., Ltd. is the professional RO system manufacturer in the industry. If you need more information about RO water purification, please do not hesitate, send inquiry or contact with Triwin for more details you need. Click here: www.triwinwater.com to obtain pure water!

 

 

Article Source: https://www.waterfiltershop.co.uk/blog/how-to-choose-a-reverse-osmosis-system/

Horizontal Machining Center Vs. Vertical Machining Center: Is a VMC or an HMC Better?

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Every year, Modern Machine Shop does studies on the machine shop industry. One of the most helpful things they do is their Top Shops report, which does a detailed breakdown of the differences between what the fastest growing and most profitable machine shops are doing compared to the “average” machine shop.

 

Horizontal Machining Center Costs and Benefits

 

The top shops had higher gross sales per machine that average shop – $266,123 versus $152,000. That is huge. One of the major differences: top shops spent 10% of their gross revenues on equipment versus 2% for average shops.

 

One place that makes a difference: invest in horizontal machining centers. You probably know that a horizontal machining center (HMC) costs more than a vertical machining center (VMC) – but do you know that 61 percent of the “top shops” invest in HMCs – and an additional 41% of them also invest in multi-face tombstones?

 

More important: an HMC can be as productive as two or more VMCs. In fact an article written by Modern Machine Shop in 2013 called “Worth Three Machines” highlighted how one company used its HMC to do as much work as 3 VMCs.

 

Review of HMCs vs VMCs

 

HMCs cost a lot more than VMCs. How much more? The Association For Manufacturing Technology says the average HMC costs $375,000 vs. just $115,000 for the average VMC. That’s why 4 times as many VMCs are bought than HMCs every year.

 

If you look at just the cost of the machine, it might make sense to purchase a VMC, but if instead of looking at the price, you look at what you get for each dollar spent, the numbers look a little different.

 

Since very few companies pay cash for their machines, let’s look at monthly payments on HMCs Versus VMCs:

 

For an easy comparison, we’ll look at a 5-year lease on each machine, assuming your company has a good credit profile.

 

  • HMC average cost: $375,000. Average monthly lease payment: $7,050 per month
  • VMC average cost: $115,000. Average monthly lease payment: $2,250 per month
  • Difference in monthly payment: $4,800 per month

 

OK, so a HMC costs, on average, $4,800 a month more than a VMC. Yes, that’s a lot more, but the real question is:

 

Will the extra profits you reap by having that HMC be more than that $4,800 a month?

 

The key driver in machine tool utilization is spindle run time. This is where HMC’s really shine. The average spindle run time on an HMC is 85% versus 25% on a VMC. So what does that mean? That means, on average, less than a third of the labor required to make the same part.

 

Whether it makes sense to invest in the HMC depends on your business model, as obviously the savings in setup times from the HMC are more important on long runs than on short runs, but if you do any long run stuff at all, the savings are pretty apparent.

 

Figure the minimum cost of a machine operator after accounting for wages, benefits, labor burden, etc. has to be roughly $6,000 a month. Since your HMC can do the work of three VMCs, it would cost $18,000 in labor to do the same work on VMCs as you get done on HMC’s.

 

True Costs and Pricing of HMC VS VMC

 

OK, yes, the example above is a little bit simplified, but doing an apple to apples comparison, it gets us “close enough” to the info we need to make a decision. With everything else being equal:

 

An HMC costs $4,800 more per month to finance than a VMC.

Using a VMC will cost you $12,000 per month more in labor than an HMC.

All other things being equal, the HMC will save you $12,000-$4,800, or $7,200 a month.

 

Let’s repeat that: after taking into account the extra monthly cost of the HMC, it will still save you $7,200 a month in labor costs.

 

As an added bonus, more expensive equipment can typically be financed for longer period of time: on the average $375,000 you would be able to finance for 7 years instead of just 5, which would drop your payment from $7,050 per month to $5,450 per month.

 

In both cases, if you lease you should be able to write off the entire payment as an operating expense, with the option to buy the equipment at the end for 10% of the original price. Another option, is an equipment finance agreement, which costs a little bit more (roughly 8% higher payments) but you would own the equipment at the end for $1.

 

The advantage of leasing over buying – tax treatment. Prior to January 2014 Section 179 of the tax code gave you a huge upfront deduction (up to $500k) when purchasing but that number has been curtailed to just $25,000 for 2014 so leasing is starting to make more sense for most companies.

 

Which Is Better?

 

The choice of Horizontal Machining Center or Vertical Machining Center depends on your business model, and some other things, but hopefully this article has given you something to chew on while making this decision.

 

If you need more information about vertical machining center and horizontal machining center, I recommend that you can visit the website of CNC-TAKANG: www.takangcnc.com. The company provides a variety of machine tools for you. Learn more details, please do not hesitate to contact with CNC-TAKANG.

 

 

Article Source: https://www.smarterfinanceusa.com/blog/vmc-vs-hmc

When to Use Swing Check vs Wafer Check Valve

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When it comes to check valves, swing checks and wafer checks are actually similar in many ways. Both serve to block back flow from occurring in a pipe line. Both use a swinging disc to block and allow flow in one direction. The differences in the two valves may seem obvious when you look at them, but many users don’t realize the difference it might make in their application.

 

Wafer check valves get their name from their wafer thin design. These valves are sleek and made to fit in tight spaces between two flanges. There are no controls on this valve. The main component of the valve is a swinging disc in the center that opens in one direction and closes if liquids flow back the other direction.

 

Swing check valves, as the name implies, also uses a swinging disc to allow or block flow. The difference between the two is in the body design. Swing check valves are not designed for extremely tight spaces like the wafer check. They have molded bodies around the area where the disc opens up. This is the most important difference between the two types of valve.

 

While at first glance this may just seem like a space issue, the presence of a valve body as opposed to the bare bones wafer check actually makes a big difference in the functionality of the valve. Because wafer check valves are flanged in place, there isn’t much room for the disc to open in the pipe line. That means flow is often restricted with a wafer check valve.

 

Swing check valves on the other hand, have a molded body that creates room for the disc to swing open fully, thus allowing full flow. As you can imagine, this is immensely important if your application requires full flow. For this reason, we recommend wafer check valves for applications where flow is not an issue, and swing check valves when a full port valve is required.

 

You can easily find a reputed and well-known provider of these different types of valves on the internet such as the NICO VALVES CORP. This company always offers the best quality wafer check valves and other valves to you. Learn more information about valves, try to check out NICO’s website here: www.ni-co.com

 

 

Article Source: https://www.commercial-industrial-supply.com/resource-center/use-swing-check-vs-wafer-check-valve/

How to Use a Deburring Tool

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Deburring tools are incredibly useful for rounding out rough edges on almost anything. You can use a deburring tool to even out the edges of a PVC pipe or to get rid of rough spots on the edge of a piece of wood. Using a deburring tool is pretty easy, but it helps to know about the process before you get started. You might also find it helpful to know what to consider when choosing your tool and what you should do to keep yourself safe.

 

Method 1 – Using the Deburring Tool

 

  1. Secure your attachment. After you have selected the appropriate attachment for the job, attach the piece to your deburring tool. You may need to consult your user’s manual to determine how to attach the piece.
  • Make sure that the attachment is locked securely in place before you switch it on.

 

  1. Make sure that the object you are deburring is locked in place. While some larger objects might stay put on their own, it will be difficult (and unsafe) to deburr a smaller item that is not secured in place. For example, a piece of furniture may not need to be secured, but a piece of wood or a pipe will need to be secured in place.
  • Try using a vice to secure smaller items and prevent them from moving around as you deburr them.

 

  1. Turn on the deburring tool. Next, pick up your deburring tool and hold it firmly by the handle. Then, switch on your deburring tool when you are ready to use it.
  • You may want to start out by using the lowest setting and then increase the speed if necessary.

 

  1. Place the deburring tool against the edge. Hold the tool so that it is right up against the edge you wish to deburr. For example, if you are deburring the edge of a piece of wood, then places the tool right up against the edge.
  • You do not need to press hard to deburr the item, just ensure that the tool makes contact with the edge of the object you are deburring.

 

  1. Go over the area two or three times. To ensure that the edge is completely deburred, it may be necessary to go over it with the deburring tool two or three times. Start at one end and move all the way to the end, or select a starting point if you are deburring a circular item.
  • If you are deburring a pipe or other circular area, then you may just have to let the deburring tool rotate two or three times.
  • If you are deburring an edge, then you will need to drag the tool back and forth across the area two or three times.

 

  1. Check the edges to ensure all burrs have been removed. After you have finished deburring the item, remove the tool and turn it off. Then, check the edges of the area you just deburred to ensure that you got all of the larger burrs. If there are still some burrs left, then you can always go over it again.
  • You can also sand the edges of the area you just deburred to ensure that it is nice and smooth. Use a fine grit sandpaper to sand away any minor imperfections.

 

Method 2 – Choosing the Right Tool

  1. Select the right size. Deburring tools are available in handheld sizes as well as larger power tool sizes. The size you need will depend on what you need to deburr. Choose the right tool for your job to get the best results.
  • Hand deburring tools are better for small, precise deburring jobs.
  • Power deburring tools work better for larger jobs.

 

  1. Choose the right type of attachment. There are many different types of deburring tool attachments to choose from. If your deburring tool came with a selection of attachments, then you may want to consult your user’s guide to determine which attachment is the most appropriate for your job.
  • Some attachments are better for certain materials, such as metal or plastic, while other attachments are better for certain shapes, such as circular items.

 

  1. Match the deburring attachment with the inner or outer diameter. If you are going to be deburring a pipe, then you may want to use a deburring attachment that will go around the pipe edge or fit inside of the pipe. If you have this type of attachment, then match it up with the pipe to see if the diameter is correct.
  • If you do not have these types of attachment, then you can still deburr the pipe. You will just need to use a different attachment work around the edges of the pipe.

 

Method 3 – Staying Safe

  1. Protect your eyes with safety goggles. When deburring a surface, pieces of wood, metal shavings or plastic will come off of the surface and they may fly towards your face. To protect your eyes from these shavings, make sure that you wear some safety goggles while you are using the deburring tool.
  • Try to get a pair of safety goggles that will protect your eyes on all sides, not just from the front.

 

  1. Wear gloves to protect your hands. Like most power tools, using a deburring tool can be dangerous. To protect your hands and fingers from injury, make sure that you wear some leather or canvas work gloves. You can find these in any hardware store.

 

  1. Consider wearing a face mask. If you will be deburring an item with a fine attachment and you expect to kick up a lot of dust, then you might also want to wear a face mask to protect yourself from the dust. Otherwise, you may end up breathing in some of the dust and this can be harmful to your health.

 

Video of Hand Deburring Tools

If you have any interest in learning more information about deburring tools, try to watch the video below:

A Reliable Deburring Tools Manufacturer

If you ask “Where can find high quality deburring tools?” I will tell you that Maxclaw Tools Co., Ltd. is the best supplier for you.

 

Maxclaw is the professional manufacturer of specializing in kinds of tube tools. It also provides a variety of hand deburring tools for you to select. If you are looking for the ideal deburring tools, do not miss Maxclaw, you will find the most suitable tools at its website.

 

 

Article Source: https://www.wikihow.com/Use-a-Deburring-Tool

Does Automotive Wheel Machining Benefit From a Purpose-Built Wheel Machine?

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Victor Taichung Machinery Works, based in Taiwan, makes a wide variety of machine tools, including turning machines and multi-purpose milling machines, but an interesting specialty application of the company are wheel machines.

 

In the video above, we speak with Wayne Hsueh, director of overseas marketing division at Victor Taichung Machinery Works about the difference between wheel machines and general purpose multi-axis machine tools.

 

“The car wheel machine is for clamping the part, because for the part to be clamped, you need a special chuck,” Hsueh explained.

 

“Usually for special purpose machines, the chuck is the key component to reduce setup time and for clamping efficiency. Wheel chips are also different from steel chips, so even a chip conveyor and the protection of ball screws are also somewhat different. For special purpose machines, you should pay attention to the kind of part you’re making, what kinds of chips are produced, what kind of coolant you use and how you dispose of it.”

 

Hsueh explains that Victor Taichung’s special-purpose wheel machines are actually modified general-purpose machines – this saves costs for the company as well as its customers.

 

“We can mass produce all the machine parts, as 80 percent of parts are compatible (between machines),” Hsueh said. “We have some customers that want special-purpose machines only and we pay a lot of attention to them. If we increase production of our general-purpose machine, the special-purpose machine would also become cheaper. We like it cheaper for mass production. That’s why we have a special machine for wheels, but wheel machines are heavy duty for heavy cutting. You need a very reliable machine base and fortunately at Victor Taichung Machines, we build the machines this way from the beginning.”

 

For more information, visit the Victor Taichung Machinery Works website.

 

 

Article Source: https://www.engineering.com/AdvancedManufacturing/ArticleID/15902/Does-Automotive-Wheel-Machining-Benefit-From-a-Purpose-Built-Wheel-Machine.aspx

 

How to Overhaul A Bottom Bracket

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How to disassemble, re-grease, reassemble and adjust a cup and cone bottom bracket.

 

Today we’ll learn how to overhaul and re-grease an adjustable bike bracket. There is something you need to prepare.

 

  • To remove the cranks you’ll need a crank puller, a 17mm open end wrench and a large adjustable wrench.
  • To overhaul the bottom bracket you’ll need a bottom bracket wrench or a pin spanner, a hooked lock ring wrench, and a 36mm wrench.
  • For re-greasing the bearings you’ll need some cleaning solvent and waterproof grease, a rag, a toothbrush and a small container to clean the bearing cages.

 

Disassemble

 

Begin by removing the cranks. Once the cranks are removed, loosen and remove the lock ring on the non-drive or left side of the bike by turning counter-clockwise. Once the locking is removed you should be able to easily loosen and un-thread the bearing race using either a pin spanner or a bicycle bracket wrench.

 

Now pull the spindle and both bearing cages out of the frame. It’s important to remember which way the spindle came out, as they are directional. The drive side usually has a longer distance from the bearing race to the end of the threads. Wipe off the bearing cages, drop them into the solvent, and let them soak while you use your rag to clean the spindle and both outer bearing races.

 

Tighten the drive-side bearing race by turning it counter-clockwise with your 36mm wrench. Unless you are replacing the bottom bracket, there is no need to remove it.

 

Inspect

 

Shine a flashlight into your bike bracket shell to inspect the bearing race for pitting and wear. Inspect your other bearing race and then carefully inspect the spindle. Most wear occurs on the spindle’s bearing races. If you see pitting here you should take it to your local bike shop for a replacement.

 

Clean

 

Now clean both bearing cages with a toothbrush and solvent, and then set them aside to air-dry. These should also be replaced if they are worn or have bent cages.

 

Grease

 

Apply a layer of grease on both bearing races and cages. A grease gun makes it easy to squirt grease inside the gaps between the bearings. Then place the bearing cages into both races. The rounded side of the cage should be facing down into the bearing race. Seal them in with another layer of grease.

 

Reassemble

 

Now insert the spindle the same way you removed it. Wipe off any excess grease that comes out on the spindle. Grease the threads inside the bottom bracket shell, and then slide the outer race and bearing cage onto the spindle. Thread it on all the way clockwise but don’t tighten it. Again you’ll need to wipe off excess grease.

 

Adjust

 

Thread on the lock ring finger-tight. Before adjusting the bottom bracket, first install the drive-side crank arm and tighten it as shown in the crank installation tutorial. This will help us make a proper adjustment. Now hold the inner race firmly with your wrench or spanner and tighten the lock ring. When properly adjusted the spindle should spin smoothly. If it doesn’t, you’ll have to loosen the lock ring, back off the inner race a little bit, and then tighten it again.

 

Check for play by placing the crank arm close the frame and pushing and pulling it against the frame. There should be no movement. If it feels loose, you’ll have to loosen the lock ring, tighten the inner race a little bit, and then tighten the lock ring again. When the adjustment is correct, install and tightens the left crank arm and you’re done!

 

Now, have you known how to overhaul a bike bracket? If you are interested in learning more information about bottom bracket and other bicycle parts, try to check out the website of G-MA Engineering Co., Ltd.: www.aerozinebike.com. There are kinds of high quality bike components at G-MA. Visit its product pages to find you need.

 

 

Article Source: http://bicycletutor.com/bottom-bracket/