Author Archives: Camille F.

Plastic Buckles Series by Dyi Er Kang

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Dyi Er Kang provides the best quality plastic buckle series including plastic side release buckles, plastic cam buckle, plastic D rings, tri rings, plastic snap hooks, small hook and ladder lock for manufacturer of handbag, backpack, schoolbag, belt buckle, stationery etc.

 

In 1991, as business showed strong growth and a much larger space was needed, we set up a new factory at Nankang Industrial Park, Nantou City, in central Taiwan. Now, we employ integrated operations covering plastic accessories, metal accessory product design, molding and product manufacturing. Production is automated and done in-house, reducing lead-time for orders, guaranteeing faster delivery.

 

If you are interested in our plastic buckles, please contact us!

 

Check our plastic buckles series:

 

  • Rectangle Ring
  • Roung D Ring
  • Tri Glide
  • Ladder Lock
  • Heavy Duty Ladder Lock
  • Tri Ring
  • Pentagon Ring
  • Plastic Buckle
  • Snap Hook
  • Revolving Snap Hook
  • Stud
  • Gord Lock
  • Plastic Cam Buckle
  • Powerful D-ring
  • Twist Lock
  • School Bag Buckle
  • Eyelet Ring
  • Safety Lock
  • Rain Shoes Snap
  • Jeans Button
  • Z-Shape Hanger
  • Solid D-Ring
  • Side Release Buckle
  • Side Release Buckle (Curve)
  • Plastic Side Release Buckle
  • Glove Hook With Tri-ring
  • Double Bar Ring
  • Sewable Loop
  • Eyelet
  • Small Hook
  • Small Snap Hooks

A Professional Manufacturer and Supplier in LED Warning Light from Taiwan

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Ching Mars Corp. is a professional manufacturer and supplier in LED warning light from Taiwan. Nowadays, LED lights are becoming popular for several applications. We focused on manufacturing all kinds of LED warning lights to be placed on the outside of the vehicles. Our main goal is to provide the highest quality LED warning light and the best service. The superior quality of products at competitive price has helped Ching Mars to expand the worldwide market. There are various LED warning lights of Ching Mars equipped for emergency situations, such as amber strobe warning light, LED warning light bar, LED traffic baton and more.

 

In the future, Ching Mars not only insists on our strict quality control but also keeps researching and developing new products to meet customers’ need. If you are interested in our LED warning light, please click the following icons below to enter the page.

VICTOR Machining Centers

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Founded in 1954, Victor Taichung Machinery Works Co., Ltd started with making conventional lathes in Taiwan and now steadily supplies CNC lathes and machining centers by devoting her management to non-stop R&D and innovations. With more than 65% in-house manufacturing and own foundry to offer highly reliable Meehanite® castings to further assure machine quality, all products are marketed globally under the brand names VICTOR or FORTUNE (in North America) which highlight her strong position as the leading machine tool manufacturer in Taiwan.

 

Insisting on Technology Innovations and Quality Superiority, Victor Taichung is continuously devoted to developing new generation of machining centers.

 

To ensure marketing for own products, Victor Taichung has invested considerably in setting up a global distribution network. As well as numerous agents around the world the Victor group has 8 technical support and distribution centers located in USA, England, France, Germany, South Africa, Malaysia, Thailand and China. These centers act not only to market our machines but also to provide our customers with an efficient after-sales service and technical support. In 2003, Victor Taichung celebrates her 50 anniversary and is greatly confident to meet the fierce challenge of machine tool market. To strive for perpetual development and technological innovations, Victor Taichung will keep on manufacturing modern machine tools with greater value added and creating prosperous future for the industry. We defined ourselves the No.1 machining centers supplier in Taiwan.

How to Well Use Your Band Saw?

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Any band saw can resaw. The question is: “How well and how thick?” The first thing you need to decide if resawing on your band saw is an activity in which you are likely to engage frequently, occasionally or never. For those of you who don’t know, resawing is the ability to cut thin slices or veneers out of a board standing on its edge on the band saw table, while being guided along a high fence. Where this pays off is when you are trying to get maximum mileage out of an especially fine, beautiful, expensive hardwood board.

For example, I made a lot of jewelry boxes with 3/8″ thick sides. Considering that I had to sand all of the sides flat and smooth, I found that I could barely get 2 slices out of a 1″ thick board or 3 slices out of a 1 1/2″ board or 4 slices out of a 2″ thick board. You need to allow 1/16″ kerf waste for most band saw blades plus more if your blade wanders, which all blades do to a certain extent. Then all unevenness has to be sanded away in a drum sander or wide belt sander. In the end, you can’t realistically expect to get two finished 3/8″ box sides out of a board that is only 3/8″+3/8″ +1/6″ = 13/16″ thick. You will need not much less than a full 1″ thickness in your original board. Since most hardwood lumber is sold milled down to 7/8″ for a so-called 1″ board, you are faced with only getting one, 3/8″ slice, not two. On the other hand, most 2″ lumber comes milled down to 1 7/8″, which allows you to bet three 3/8″ pieces out, saving you money.

The more your band saw blade wanders, the more thickness you will need. The important thing is to minimize this wandering and there are five ways to do this: (1) blade tension (maximum recommended to keep the blade from flexing), (2) blade width (the wider, the better for stiffness), (3) blade type (designed specifically for resawing), (4) motor power (to drive the blade through the wood without bogging down) and (5) blade guides (the more blade control, the better).

If you plan on doing a lot of resawing, pay close attention to the specifications of band saws you are considering for purchase, in light of what has been said above. If resawing doesn’t look like it will play a large part in your future, then you are probably more interested in cutting curves in thinner material. In this case, throat depth of your band saw becomes a very important consideration because, on a small band saw, you will be constantly bumping into the back of the throat and you may not be able to complete the curved cuts you have penciled out.

Any 14-inch band saw will severely limit the width of cuts you can make to the left of the blade, so consider if this will present a problem for you. If you are planning on just cutting out small parts, fine. On the other hand, if you want to make large parts for furniture, then a small band saw just won’t do. Of course, there is no limitation to the right of the blade, on a 14″ (or any other) band saw, except that you will have to supply auxiliary support for your work piece if it extends very far off the edge of the table. Throat depth is not so much of a problem when you are using the band saw for resawing, although, for resawing, you will need to consider the maximum distance between the table top and the upper blade guide. That measurement determines how wide a board you can resaw on your band saw.

When shopping for a band saw, don’t be fooled into thinking that an 18″ band saw will give you a full 18″ between the blade and the back of the throat. Band saws are measured by the outside diameter of their wheels. These wheels are mounted inside the cabinet, one above the table and the other, below. Actually, there is an upper cabinet and a lower cabinet connected by a “column”. The blade travels upwards from the lower (powered) wheel through and inside the column to the upper (idler) wheel before reversing direction and going downwards through the upper blade guide, then the table, then the lower blade guide before returning to the lower wheel.

Because the column takes up a certain amount of space, an 18″ band saw will not normally have a full 18″ throat. It will be something less than that, perhaps 17½” (if you are lucky) or even 17″. So, if you need a full 18″ of clearance, you will need a 20″ band saw. Prices climb with throat depth simply because as throat depth increases, the wheels and the cabinets must increase in size accordingly. In short, the whole machine gets bigger.

Small band saws with small wheels may not be tall enough to sit on the floor like larger ones. With small band saws, you must either mount them on a bench or purchase or build a stand. Usually the stand is included in the price of the smaller saws. Conversely, when working on a very large, industrial band saw, count on the table top being quite high off the floor to accommodate the lower wheel and its cabinet.

When you order blades for your band saw, do so in quantity. There are few sure things in life but blade breakage is guaranteed. Always have replacement band saw blades on hand so you don’t end up breaking your only blade right in the middle of a project. When you do order blades, you can usually find the best prices online but you will need to allow for delivery time and shipping costs. You can buy blades from the saw manufacturer but it is usually cheaper to purchase them from a vendor who specializes in band saw blades. If you can’t find the exact size your band saw uses, you can ordinarily have your blades custom-welded to any length you need.

There are times when you want a specialized band saw blade for a specific use like resawing. Here, the challenge is to get a reasonably smooth cut but not to have so many teeth that it causes an undue amount of friction, heat and wandering. In a case like that, it may be best to buy directly from the manufacturer of your band saw. Band saw blades designed to cut tight curves are as narrow as 1/8″. For most curves, I have found 1/4″ blades to be sufficiently narrow. The narrower the blade, the more likely it will be to break quickly but it can track tighter curves than wider blades. For really tight curves, a scroll saw may be a better tool than a band saw. Resaw blades should always be as wide as your band saw can accommodate.

There are two basic types of blade guides on band saws: “blocks” and “ball bearing guides”. Blocks can be made out of smooth metal, non-metallic composite or ceramic material. Ball bearing guides are more expensive but are much easier on blades in that there is minimal friction and, therefore, reduced heat. There are side guides in any band saw to restrain the blade from moving left or right and a single block or bearing behind the band saw blade to keep it from moving backward when pressure is applied to the front of the blade by the work piece. After-market ball bearing guides with full installation instructions can be obtained from manufacturers such as Carter. The more expensive band saws come already equipped with ball bearing guides.

Like other stationary power tools, very large band saws usually have three phase motors. You should not consider purchasing one of these unless you have three phase power available at the place where you will be using the saw. Three phase power is usually only available from the power company in commercial or industrial areas and cannot be found in residential areas. The only way to have three phase power in a home woodworking shop is to use a phase converter that is large enough for the power requirement of your largest three phase motor. If you plan on running more than one three phase motor at a time, you will need a correspondingly larger phase converter. There are two types of phase converters: rotary (looks like a big electric motor) and electronic. Rotary is better if you can find it. Search for phase converters online.

A two speed band saw is useful if you are planning on cutting metal or very dense hardwoods. Running the band saw on the slow setting will mean that while it will take longer to make cuts, it will reduce heat from friction and extend blade life. Metal cutting band saw blades are widely available for cutting mild steel and non-ferrous metals. Never use a metal cutting band saw blade to cut wood. Never use a wood-cutting band saw blade to cut metal.

Some band saw wheels are bare metal. If you want to track narrow blades, your band saw wheels should have rubber “tires” that are glued onto or inserted into grooves in the metal band saw wheels. These tires are usually crowned. By adjusting the blade tracking device, you can get the blade to stay in one position on the tires or metal wheels.

Another adjustment moves the upper band saw wheel up and down to increase or decrease blade tension. You will need to release this tension to change band saw blades and, on the newer band saws, you can usually find a lever that does this for you. If not, you will have to loosen the tension knob enough to install a new blade on the wheels. Then re-apply the tension, using the blade tension scale, appropriate to the blade width you are using. Wide blades will require more tension than narrow blades. Narrow blades can break if too much tension is applied. Large band saw blades can wander off the band saw wheels if insufficient tension is used. Always refer to the tension scale on your band saw. Don’t guess.

After the band saw blade is tensioned properly, disconnect power to the motor and turn the upper wheel by hand to verify that the band saw blade is tracking properly. If not, make appropriate tilt adjustments to the upper wheel until the band saw blade stays in the approximate center of both wheels. A hand wheel or knob is provided on any band saw for this purpose. If the wheels are slightly out of alignment with respect to each other, you can still track a band saw blade. In this case, the band saw blade will be more to the back of one wheel while being more to the front of the other wheel. This discrepancy should eventually be adjusted or “tuned” out of your band saw, but, for now, it’s OK as long as the band saw blade stays on the wheels while cutting. Once you have the band saw blade tracking properly, reconnect the power and start cutting.

 

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Purchasing Tips of Used Plastic Pelletizing Systems

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A plastic extrusion-pelletizing system is equipment that creates plastic pellets and is one of the most important intermediate processes in plastics. There are four main processes: strand pelletizing, underwater, hot ring, and hot cut. The technology has not changed significantly in recent years and used plastic pelletizing equipment offers a high return on investment. The typical life of a new plastic extrusion-pelletizing system from a reputable manufacturer will exceed 20 years if properly cared for and maintained. The most important considerations when buying a new or used plastic extrusion-pelletizing system are cost, quality and delivery time.

How Plastic Pelletizing Systems Work

Plastic extrusion-pelletizing system add raw materials, often powders, to the barrel of an extruder. Inside the barrel, heat and pressure are applied to melt the powders and a rotating screw mixes it together. This creates a uniform and consistent molten product. The molten product is passed through a screen that creates pressure in the extruder barrel, filters impurities, and controls flow to the die. The diameter and shape of the molten plastic is determined by settings on the die. From this point, four different processes can be applied.

Different Plastic Pelletizing Processes Strand Pelletizing

One option to process compound plastic is strand pelletizing. After the extruder process, a strand die creates a series of spaghetti-like strands that are cooled in water. Once cooled, an air stripper removes excess water. The strand pelletizer then cuts the cooled strands. In the case of the strand die, the number of holes is proportional to the size of the extruder. Another consideration is heat source: electric or oil. Electric systems are cleaner and easier to maintain at a constant temperature, however some applications require oil. The most common manufacturer is Extrusion Dies Industries (EDI). It can be difficult to determine the brand of the die without documentation.

Water Bath

Issues to consider when purchasing a used water bath include the length, width, and depth of the submersion chamber. It’s important to ensure the water bath is big enough to hold the strands. The size of the water bath is generally matched to the throughput of the extruder. Construction material is also important with stainless steel the best choice because it doesn’t rust. Other materials include carbon steel and aluminum.

Air Stripper

When purchasing an air stripper, make sure the width of the lips are wide enough to allow the strands to be pulled through and ensure the horsepower is strong enough.

Strand Pelletizing

When purchasing a used strand pelletizing system, ensure the entrance width and strand guide matches the size and number of strands. Examine the type of rotor: either removable blades or solid helical. In both cases, the number and width of the blade on the rotor is important. Make sure the unit has adequate horsepower to spin the rotor to cut pellets. Manufacturers include Conair and Cumberland.

Screen

Screens can be round or rectangle. Ensure the size of the screen matches the extruder. Screens with more decks allow greater levels of filtration. Manufacturers of round screens are Sweeco, Midwestern, and Kason. Manufacturers of rectangular screens include Witte and Rotex. Screens need to be sized to match the rate of the extruder.

Underwater Pelletizing

Another option to process compound plastic is underwater pelletizing. In this process, an adapter connects the extruder with or without a screen changer to a system comprised of a die, a cutting system, a water system, and a spin dryer. In this process, molten material is cut into pellets after moving through the die and into a water slurry. Pelletizing takes place underwater. After this, pellets are dried in a spin dryer and sorted according to size by a screen. The underwater pelletizer must be sized so that the flow of water in gallons per minute is appropriate for the production rate of material from the extruder. Each manufacturer has a different calculation. The most common manufacturers are Gala and Farrel.

Water Ring Pelletizing

A third option to process compound plastic is water ring pelletizing. This works in the same way as underwater pelletizing except the pellet is cut when hot and cooled in a ring of water. As the plastic moves through the die, the pelletizer throws the pellets against the wall of the ring with water instantly cooling the hot pellets. The pellets are dried in a spin dryer and sorted by size through a screen. When purchasing water ring pelletizing systems, consider the model, capacity and manufacturer. The most common brands are Beringer, Xaloy, and PTI. It’s common for water ring pelletizing systems to include the die, cutter, water system, spin dryer and water trough.

Hot Cut Pelletizing

The fourth option to process compound plastic is hot cut pelletizing. In this case, pellets are cut when hot and cooled by a blower before being sorted by size through a screen. This process is typically used with PVC pellets. The best-known brand is Cincinnati Milacron.

Used plastic pelletizing systems

When purchasing the used plastic extrusion-pelletizing systems, consider its age, manufacturer, horsepower, type of rotor, and screen holes. The advantages of buying a used plastics pelletizing system includes immediate installation and competitive price. Choose a reputable brand with maintenance records.

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The Basics of Aramid Fabric

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Taiwan Electric Insulator was established in 1978 as a manufacturer of aramid fabrics, including aramid fiber fabric, ballistic aramid fabric and colored aramid fabric. The aramid fabric features flame resistance, outstanding shock absorption, and superb engineering benefits to all manners of manufacturing and design in the composite industry. To go with the ever-changing requirements, Taiwan Electric Insulator is dedicated to development and innovation of aramid fabric to meet the highest level of customers’ satisfactions.

 

The manufacturing world is constantly evolving with new techniques and developments in material application. Products of Taiwan Electric Insulator Co. Ltd. have a far reaching use in all areas of industries with new applications being developed. Our products cover aerospace industry, sports, medical, automotive, as well as hundreds of specific industries that rely on our products and know-how.

 

Find out more details about aramid fabric, please contact us now!

Getting The Right Suppliers For Your Bicycle Parts Needs

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There are certain times when it is best to go to a local brick and mortar bicycle dealer and parts supplier in order to suffice your needs. Whenever, you are going to these local shops you should ask them or get answers to the 5 crucial questions.

The 5 questions that you should ask your local bicycle parts and accessory dealers or suppliers are:

1) What are the return policies?

2) Are the products carried by the local dealers or suppliers original equipment manufacturer (OEM)?

3) What are the warranties?

4) How many of the specific item(s) you want, has the supplier sold?

5) How many years has the local supplier been in business?

When it comes to bicycle parts and accessory, finding the right suppliers for those bicycle parts may be an expensive journey. For the most part, getting these supplies online may be the cheapest route. eBay should be the first place that you try searching in order to get an idea of how much the supplies are going to cost you. One main thing that you should do when going the eBay route is to closely examine the seller’s feedback. Look to see if they had sold other cycling products and if their feedbacks are positive.

In order to save yourself some money and heartache later, it is best to ask these 5 questions before you make your first purchase. Many cyclists that I know don’t ask these questions ahead of time and are now regretting it. Be a smart cyclist consumer and get to know the 5 crucial questions.

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What Do You Know About Gravity Die Casting?

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With sand casting the mold is broken up after each casting operation, but with the process known as gravity die casting, the mold also called a ‘die’ is manufactured from metal, and can be used a large number of times. This means that the die is much more expensive to make, than an expendable ‘one use only’ mold. An intermediate technique makes use of semipermanent molds, which are made of gypsum plaster or fireclay, which can be used repeatedly for a limited number of castings. With gravity die castings, the most widely used materials for die-making are cast iron, steel, and heat resisting alloys of iron. For some specific purposes other materials are used to manufacture the dies, and these can include, aluminum, copper or graphite. A metal die can produce smooth castings with a clean surface, and a very high dimensional accuracy. Gravity die castings require very little or no final machining or other finishing treatment. The service life of metal dies can vary in terms of the number of castings it can produce, and this depends on certain factors such as the casting material, the thermal metal shock resistance of the die material, the temperature at which it is poured, and the casting method employed.

Many different details need to be taken into consideration when designing the pattern from which the die is made. For instance the pouring-gate system and risers need to be considered so that the walls of mold allow a quenching action upon the molten metal so it van solidify more rapidly than in sand casting. Also the die must be provided with channels at the joints and air vent holes to allow air from the hot metal to escape from the interior of the die. The die must also be constructed so it will not restrict the shrinkage that occurs, when the metal cools. Shrinkage can present difficulties when designing the cores which form the casting. Usually the cores are made from steel or special alloys, and sometimes compressible sand or shell cores are used.

To prevent the casting metal from sticking to the die, the die can be given an internal coating of chalk, clay, or bone ash with water glass as a binder. This mixture can be applied to the die by spraying, brushing or immersion.

With simple castings the molten metal may be poured in at the top. It should be designed to allow the molten metal to flow quickly without turbulence into all parts of the die. For metals with low melting points the die is sometimes heated to prevent premature solidification, and for metals with a high melting point, the die may have to be artificially cooled after each casting operation.

Slowly moving or tilting the die while casting can reduce turbulence and enable the metal to flow more smoothly, particularly when heavy castings are being produced. For awkwardly shaped castings, a vacuum may be applied to help the filling of the die. Slush casting, is a technique used for producing ornamental or hollow castings: the molten metal is poured into the die, and when a solid shell of sufficient thickness has formed, the remaining liquid is poured out.

Although die castings are cheaper than sand castings, the die tooling is more expensive, and an optimum number of castings need to be produced to make the process cost effective.

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Benefits of PVC Wall Panels

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Even though these are excellent wall or ceiling covers, they can be costly — and unpleasant to set up and eliminate. Nevertheless there is a solution i.e. PVC wall panels. These can be an excellent remedy if you want to protect your ceiling, wall or surfaces quickly — and have them look fashionable and architecture look too. They are avail in just about any type of “look” you want, from woodgrain to granite-look, even onyx or stone.

PVC represents Polyvinyl Chloride and it is a plastic paneling remedy that’s been shaped to particular needs. It has several benefits over actual woodgrain paneling for instance or other surfaces covers. They include:

Durability

Unlike real wooden covers or other natural components, PVC wall panel is resilient and very low servicing. They avoid removal and shade changes and in contrast to wooden paneling, for example, they will not soak up water or won’t rot.

Ease of installation

PVC wall panels are very simple to set up or install. Most PVC paneling these days is done as a tongue and groove set up as that they can simply be affixed or nailed through recessed attaching so that the nails are hidden. You can also adhesive PVC wall panels onto surfaces instead of nailing or stapling. The paneling is light-weight, portable and simple to deal with, so that you don’t need unique tools.

Variety

One can find out PVC wall panels in just about any shade, design or look you want. That means you can fit ceiling panel to just about any decorations.

Insulation

It might shock you to know that PVC panels are also insulating. This can provide a type of higher insulation levels for your home beyond that you would generally look upon.

Easy maintenance

Unlike other surfaces covers, you don’t need to do anything unique to sustain or clean PVC panels. All you have to do is clean them with a wet cloth.

Inexpensive

Although you will pay a little bit out of wallet for PVC paneling, the benefits eventually in contrast to other surfaces protecting components is important. Because they’re very low servicing, resilient, Flame resistant and simple to clean, you can put them up once and appreciate them for years to come, without muss, without hassle.

Flame resistant

PVC wall panels have the biggest Flame resistance for any internal finish, further guaranteeing the protection of your family.

Easily changeable

Want to modify the look in a space quickly? Instead of having to clean and repaper a space whenever you want a new look, you can basically take down surfaces sections and put new ones back up, quickly. It is a simple way to modify a look in a space, quickly — no unpleasant colour or paper scratching to deal with.

Walls paneling can be the solution in more ways than one. They can not only help to secure a building’s substructure, they can also give the building security against the price of future maintenance and damage.

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Brief About CNC Lathes

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A CNC lathe is a machine that can spins material to do a variety of operations like sanding, drilling, cutting or sanding. Usually a lathe is used for more intricate cuts and Today, they replace the older multispindle lathes because they are easier to set up and operate.

A CNC lathe will use carbide tooling and is designed using a CAM process which creates a file that can be uploaded to the machine at a later time. The reason these are so popular is because you can set the machine once to do several pieces and it will continue to do them until you have programmed it to stop.

Each CNC lathe has a computer control that allows the machine to be controlled electronically, and this program can be modified to do a variety of things. When an operator runs a CNC lathe they have to have a lot of skill to understand the programs and how the programs to do the work.

You can work with wood when you use a CNC wood lathe or various metals depending on the project you are doing. The wood lathe can be used for wood but also for brass and Aluminum. There are also metalworking CNC lathes or milling machines that cut metal. You can do tapered work with these, drill holes, and create screw threads and more with these lathes.

Some CNC lathes are portable and others are stationary. In many shops for people who do woodwork for a hobby you would find a lathe because it is capable of making a lot of different designs and intricate cuts for things like stair railings, trellis’ or table legs.

The point of using a CNC lathe is to make a piece of material that is symmetrical and beautiful. This is done by placing the material in a machine and allowing that piece to be spun until it reaches the specification that was programmed into the computer. The cutting tools then move around it on the Z and X axis to cut away the material that isn’t needed to make the piece.

The process that the CNC lathe does is called turning and it can do a variety of shapes when it goes through the full process. Many machines are used to create a plain surface to make contour shapes, to taper the ends of some pieces and it makes threaded surfaces. You can also turn metal so that you can create rods bushes, pulleys or other shapes that are needed. In some industries they use a CNC lathe to fabricate parts that may have a cross section that is to move in a circular motion.

Any material can be used as long as it will hold up during the turning process while the software program is continuing its revolutions.

CNC lathes are best used when you want to turn out several pieces of the same size and shape and where you don’t want a lot of decoration. They do have their limitations but for the most part you can create nice pieces with this type of machine.

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