Understanding Hydraulic Pump Types and Differences

There are many types of machinery that are driven by or actuated by a hydraulic pump. There are a variety of different systems that are used to generate the flow and pressure required and they all have a hydraulic fluid and a system that controls the fluid and pressure with hydraulic valves. The pump needs to drive and this can be done by any force generating device such as an electric motor, an internal combustion engine, wind power or even a person operating a lever or crank.

 

How It Works

A hydraulic fluid is put under pressure by the hydraulic pump and the pressure can then be used to drive a piston or drive unit via hydraulic lines. A hydraulic valve is used to switch the force on and off to give control of the device. The control can be mechanical or electrical and may be actuated manually through a lever or a button or automatically through control system.

 

Volume and Pressure

There are many different hydraulic systems and they all used a combination of volume displacement and pressure to work. The higher the pressure the more robust a system needs to be because of the tremendous forces involved. In general higher pressure systems are more efficient and the higher the pressure the less flow is required for the same application of force. There are two general types of pumps fixed displacement types that displace the same amount of fluid every cycle and adjustable displacement types that can vary the displacement for increased or decreased pressure.

 

Pump Types

There are many different types of hydraulic pumps that have different applications. Screw type pumps are good for high volumes at relatively low pressure. They are simple and effective but not particularly efficient. A gear pump has a more balanced pressure and flow and is very simple but is not very efficient particularly as pressure increases.

 

The vane pump is widely used in system of medium pressure up to 150 bar and beyond. While the axial piston pump is used in applications that require the highest efficiency. Where high pressure above 300 bars is needed the radial piston pump combine high pressure and low flow rates needed in these applications.

 

If you need more information of hydraulic pumps, please come and visit ANSON Hydraulics Industrial Ltd. – they are the professional manufacturer of various vane pumps. You can find variable vane pump, fixed displacement vane pump, hydraulic power pack unit, and much more hydraulic pumps there. To get more details, welcome to check out their website and feel free to contact with ANSON.

 

Article Source: http://peerlessengineering.com/understanding-hydraulic-pump-types-and-differences/

Reducing Sinker and Wire EDM Consumable Costs

A key area for improvement in EDM operations is the reduction of EDM consumables. New technologies, machine settings, and improved material grade limit ram or sinker EDM electrode wear to 0.1% while maintaining productive machining speeds. For wire EDM, new low-consumption technologies reduce the biggest expenses—the wire itself—by as much as 50 percent.

With all EDM machines, you experience the benefits of designing and cutting complex shapes and tapered holes with hard metals. You can depend that the machine has the capacity to cut exactly what you want. Sinker EDM machines use an electrode and workpiece submerged in liquids such as oil or dielectric water. A power supply is connected to the electrode and generates an electrical potential between both of the parts, producing a breakdown to form a plasma channel and spark jumps. The sparks initiated by the power supply often times strike one another.

In the sinker EDM process, wear on the electrode starts as soon as the erosion process begins. As metal is burned away on the workpiece, the electrode gradually experiences wear loses its fine details, and is dimensionally changed. Minimizing electrode wear is not only critical to reducing costs and lead times but also improving part accuracy.

From a general sinker EDM perspective, quality graphite electrode materials provide the most productive machining speed. The wear rate of a graphite electrode depends largely on the size of the detail, the electrode reduction amount, and the power settings used. However the grade of the graphite is a contributing factor. Using the correct grade of graphite will limit wear and rate of erosion.

Wire electrical discharge machining uses a single string of thin metal wire to cut thick metals for precise incisions and splits. Similar to Sinker EDM, Wire EDM uses an electrode and spark to cut metal. Using a spark erosion technique, Wire EDM machining submerges the part being cut in deionized water and the wire acts as the electrode, creating a spark that roughs or skims the part into the desired shape without the wire ever coming in contact with the part.

The price of a wire EDM machine is minimal when compared to the cost of the wire over the life expectancy of the machine. Excessive wire consumption on a wire electrical discharge machine is costly. Technology that allows slower unspooling speeds without compromising results appears to be the answer. The wire is the single highest expense in operating a wire EDM. With even the least expensive EDM wire running $5 to $6 per pound, investing in low-wire consumption EDM machines appears to be the answer.

A key area for improvement in EDM operations is the reduction of EDM consumables. For Sinker EDM users, consider using better grades of quality materials to reduce cost. For Wire EDM users, consider investing in new technology with machine settings that reduce the amount of wire used.

Article Source: https://graphel.com/blog/save-money-edm-sinker-consumable-costs/

How to Repair a Shoe with Rubber Shoe Cement?

Shoes that are torn or those with separated soles can be repaired with rubber shoe cement. Rubber shoe cement is made of latex polymers designed to stick together two pieces of rubber. However, rubber cement can be used to create a waterproof and temporary coating over holes in the fabric or leather part of shoes, if painted on and allowed to dry. Rubber cement can also serve as a protectant to prevent wear and tear on shoes.

 

Holes Part:

Step 1

Estimate the size of the hole. Cut or tear a napkin or piece of paper towel in the approximate shape of the hole. This piece should be twice the size of the hole.

 

Step 2

Place the torn napkin or paper towel inside the shoe, aligning it with the hole.

 

Step 3

Brush one thick coat of rubber cement over the hole on the outside of the shoe. The most effective method to cover the hole is by using long, steady strokes. Ensure the shoe cement is coating the napkin or paper towel and a 1- to 2-inch area surrounding the hole.

 

Step 4

Allow rubber cement to dry for three to four hours.

 

Step 5

Apply a second thick coat over the original area. Allow to dry for three to four hours. Once two coats of rubber cement have dried on a shoe, it can be worn.

 

Soles Part:

Step 1

Remove any dirt or debris from between the sole and the body of the shoe. Dirt and debris will prevent the rubber cement from adhering properly.

 

Step 2

Apply a thick coating of rubber cement to the exposed area of the sole.

 

Step 3

Press the sole firmly to the shoe, applying pressure for one to two minutes.

 

Step 4

Place the shoe on a flat surface with a heavy object on top of it. This allows rubber cement to properly adhere in the correct places. Leave the shoe alone for 48 hours. After 48 hours, the shoe is fit to wear.

 

To get more information of shoe cement or shoe adhesive, I highly recommend you to visit Great Eastern Resins Industrial Co. Ltd. – they are the professional adhesive manufacturer in Taiwan. You can find kinds of industrial glue and shoe adhesive there. Learn more details, please do not hesitate to contact with GRECO.

 

Article Source: https://www.hunker.com/13422479/how-to-repair-a-shoe-with-rubber-cement

Explanation of Epoxy and Epoxy Adhesive

Epoxy is an organic compound. It is made up of chains of carbon linked to other elements such as hydrogen, oxygen, or nitrogen. This link occurs via a covalent bond, in which the elements share a pair of electrons to stay together.

 

The epoxy term is a broad one. It can be used to describe the epoxide functional group, which is made up of a chain of carbon and oxygen atoms. Since functional groups determine the main characteristics of a molecule during a chemical reaction, this means molecules that contain the epoxide functional group can react chemically to create a rigid, yet highly flexible material.

 

The term epoxy can also be used to refer to the epoxy resins that appear after curing. Curing is a chemical process in which a material hardens after exposure to air, heat, or chemical additives. In epoxy, curing occurs with the help of a catalyst, which is chemical additive that increases the rate of a chemical reaction. This results in an exothermic reaction that creates a cross-linkage in the polymer. This cross-linkage is responsible for the rigidity and strength of epoxy materials.

 

Creating Epoxy Adhesives

Epoxy resin and hardener curing conditions can be modified to create the desired mechanical strength and property in the material. This means choosing the right temperature or humidity settings for the curing process to obtain epoxy materials that are resistant to heat, electricity, or chemicals. As a result, a variety of epoxy adhesives have been developed to suit a broad range of applications from automobiles to golf clubs. They are suitable for any product requiring a high strength adhesive and can be used on a variety of materials.

 

Properties of Epoxy Adhesives

As adhesives, the epoxy material needs to withstand heat, water, and harsh chemicals. It also needs to have a high level of adhesion on a variety of substrates and be flexible enough to be molded into different shapes. All these properties can be achieved by controlling the conditions in which the adhesives are created.

 

Epoxy adhesives are also durable and can withstand heavy loads, making them excellent structural adhesives. Epoxies come in either one-component or two-component systems. The main difference between the systems is the difference in curing temperatures.

 

One-Component Epoxy Adhesives

One-component epoxy adhesives are cured at temperatures between 250 and 300 degrees Fahrenheit. They are formulated without the aid of a catalyst and cure faster than two-component epoxy systems.

 

One-component systems have excellent adhesive properties and are resistant to harsh external environments. This makes them an excellent alternative to welding and rivets, as they possess similar properties to maintain structural integrity.

 

Two-Component Epoxy Adhesives

Two-component epoxy adhesives are also known as a two-part epoxy. They are cured at lower temperatures compared to one-component systems. The curing is done with the help of catalysts, and the process can be accelerated by heat. Cross-linking in the polymers increases during this heat acceleration process to give the epoxy superior properties.

 

Two-component epoxy adhesives are highly stable. They also have a wide variety of applications, such as bonding, sealing, and coating. They can be treated to resist high temperatures and have fast curing times.

 

Choosing the Right Epoxy Adhesive

One factor to consider when choosing an epoxy adhesive is the work life. This is how much time an epoxy adhesive takes to harden and dry. However, this is not to be confused with cure time, which refers to the length of time it takes for the internal chemical reactions to complete and the epoxy to reach its full strength.

 

A good example would be the long work life polyamide epoxy adhesive versus a metal bonding epoxy adhesive. Both are made by Infinity Bond, and both require 24 hours to become completely cured. However, the long work life polyamide epoxy has a work life of 200 to 700 minutes, while the metal bonding epoxy has a work life of only 9 to 12 minutes.

 

To choose the right epoxy adhesive based on work life, simply determine the approximate length of time your job will take. You do not want your epoxy adhesive to harden and dry before your job is finished. Neither do you want your materials to shift nor is slide after your job complete because your epoxy adhesive has not dried and hardened in time.

 

Another factor to consider when choosing the right epoxy adhesive is the material of the substrate. Even though two-component epoxy adhesives are generally suitable for all substrates, from metal to plastic to glass and wood, special epoxy adhesives have been developed.

 

Some examples of special epoxy adhesives include the electrical epoxy by Infinity bond. Designed for use in electrical potting processes, this epoxy adhesive is highly resistant to shock and vibrations, and repels moisture to prevent corrosion. All of which are highly desirable properties in electrical potting.

 

Lastly, color is also a contributing factor when deciding which epoxy adhesive to choose. For highly visible jobs, the epoxy adhesive has to blend in with the substrate for aesthetic appeal. Luckily, two-part epoxy adhesives have been developed in a variety of colors, and even come in a clear version for those hard-to-match colors.

 

If you have interest in epoxy adhesives, I sincerely recommend you to come and visit Epolab Chemical Industries Inc. – they are the professional epoxy resin manufacturer in Taiwan. To get more information of it, check out their website and feel free to contact Epolab.

 

Article Source: https://www.hotmelt.com/blogs/blog/adhesive-academy-epoxy-explained

Three Tips to Keep Hydraulic Cutting Tools Healthy

Hydraulic cutting tools and crimpers are the key to modern termination techniques. Hydraulic termination tools are arguably the largest and most complex devices in a contractor’s gang box. They’re certainly not in the same category as expendable tools like 3/8-in. variable speed drills. In fact, they’re more costly to replace than almost all hand tools. It’s no wonder good preventive care and maintenance is essential.

 

Hydraulic Cutters And Crimpers Are Key To Modern Termination Techniques

 

Hydraulic termination tools are arguably the largest and most complex devices in a contractor’s gang box. They’re certainly not in the same category as expendable tools like 3/8-in. variable speed drills. In fact, they’re more costly to replace than almost all hand tools. It’s no wonder good preventive care and maintenance is essential to extended tool life and increased worker productivity. By investing some time in staff training and a nominal amount of money for maintenance, good hydraulic tool performance will repay you many times over in the long run.

 

The following three tips should help you maintain these valuable tools.

 

Tip 1: Keep Them Clean

The primary cause of premature hydraulic tool failure is dirt and contamination. Usually, pistons and rams are the areas on a remote head where dirt and contaminants enter (unless you leave the hydraulic fluid reservoir open, which we don’t generally recommend in field operations).

 

To combat dirt and contamination, make sure you follow these preventive maintenance steps.

 

  • Brush and wipe clean all hydraulic connections before you insert them into a hydraulic pump or remote head.

 

Always use fiber brushes when cleaning your hydraulic tools—never metal-bristled brushes. Metal can score a piston, creating an area for dirt and other contaminants to collect and migrate into the hydraulic fluid. This increases the chance of compromising your tool’s rings and ball seats as well as the tool pump itself.

 

  • Clean hydraulic heads with non-petroleum solvents whenever possible to reduce contamination of traveling surfaces and hydraulic interfaces.

 

Not all makes of hydraulic tools have the same type of seals. For example, certain petroleum-based products may negatively affect rubber or neoprene O-rings on pistons and ram followers. In fact, some tool manufacturers will require the use of specific solvents while others will restrict the use of these same solvents.

 

  • Clean your hydraulic tool daily when you’re using it in adverse conditions.

 

Working near salt water is probably the worst situation. While most hydraulic tool manufacturers test their products in salt-spray chambers during design and certify they can withstand such exposure up to 24 hr. or more, it’s still important you clean your tool after each use in such an environment.

 

Most manufacturers recommend flushing the tool with clean water and wiping it down with a recommended solvent. If you fail to do this, you can expect long-term damage. Also, the “dirty” tools might contaminate other tools stored in your gang box.

 

Tip 2: Use Them Properly

Misuse and abuse are strong causes for tool failure. Using hydraulic tools for hammering or prying is an obvious misuse; however, many manufacturers report this type of equipment abuse as a common sight during repair and reconditioning.

 

Other reports include the obvious field installation of extension handles (commonly referred to as cheaters) to improve a tool’s performance. Actually, these handles don’t increase performance at all because the tool’s output force is fixed. Basically, you’re just placing undue stress on your tool with these handles. More importantly, you’re compromising its dielectric properties, since the extension handles may cut into your tool’s insulation.

 

Manufacturers also report instances where an operator used a soft-metal hydraulic cutter to cut reinforcing bar or some other very hard metal. This is very dangerous! Besides tool failure, individual pieces can shatter and break away, potentially causing injury. (Even when you’re using a hydraulic cutter or crimping tool properly, always wear eye protection.)

 

Finally, manufacturers talk of obvious incorrect selections of tooling, dies, and connectors. This negatively impacts tool performance. For example, if you use a connector from Manufacturer A with dies from Manufacturer B in a tool from Manufacturer C, you certainly would have compatibility problems. More importantly, the resulting connection is questionable. This brings liability into play. Here’s what you should do to ensure compatibility:

 

  • Verify your tool’s acceptance of available dies and/or connectors.

 

  • Check with the connector manufacturer’s published data and verify which tools and dies it recommends for a specific connector.

 

Tip 3: Be Sure To Follow Maintenance Schedules

Your self-contained hydraulic tools will last five to 15 years with proper care and maintenance. Make sure you check their system operation yearly.

 

You can expect the same life expectancy for electric-powered pumps. You should check their system operation yearly as well. The best preventive maintenance procedure for pumps is an annual hydraulic oil change.

 

You need to make a yearly check of hydraulic hoses (both insulated and non-insulated) for cracks and leaks. Most electric powered crimping tool manufacturers have hydraulic hose care manuals. Make sure you refer to them before and after tool usage. Do not attempt to repair a hydraulic hose. Contact your tool manufacturer, and replace it with a new one.

 

If you need more information about hydraulic cutting tools, please do not miss Tai Cheng Hydraulic Industry Co., Ltd. – they are the well-known hand tool manufacturer in the industry. Get more details about punching tools and cutting tools, contact Tai Cheng immediately.

 

 

Article Source: https://www.ecmweb.com/content/three-tips-keep-hydraulic-tools-healthy

The Difference Between Metal and Wood Lathe Chucks

A lathe chuck is a clamp that is used for holding the lathe’s rotating tool bits. You can find the lathe chuck in a push or a pulled design. The push version is tapered and works by using a threaded cup. This pushes the bit deep into the socket to make the clamp. The pulled design has a section that is threaded near the back of the tool. This pulls the chuck in tight by use of the grooves.

 

Lathe Chuck Information

The lathe chuck can be used for either metal or wood lathes. It is important to know the differences between them so that you will be able to choose the right one for you. Of the different models, the most popular is the three and four jaw. The grip on the cutting tools and drill bits is firmer which is necessary for harder materials. When thinking about cost, the wood lathe will cost you less than a metal one. However, you need to consider what types of jobs you wish to do before deciding what one to buy.

 

Information on Wood Lathe Chucks

The size for wood lathe chucks is most often 0.25” or 0.50”. However, you can find them in other sizes if necessary. These are used to turn wood for a bowl, pens, cue sticks, baseball bats, table legs, etc. Because wood lathes are not as sturdy, the motor does not have to be nearly as powerful as a metal lathe. A wood lathe should not be used for materials that are harder than wood. Wood Lathes turn faster and do not make cuts that are as precise as metal lathes. While they are less expensive than metal lathes they do not make very good substitutes.

 

Information on Metal Lathe Chucks

Metal lathe chucks are used for hard materials. A metal lathe has a much more powerful motor than a wood lathe. You can also guarantee more precise cuts from a metal lathe. A metal lathe does not need to be hand held. The tool itself is incorporated into the machine that you use. A metal lathe chuck itself is a heavier tool when compared to a wood lathe. If necessary, you can use a metal lathe for any wood projects that you may have.

 

Some Safety Tips

When using a lathe, whether it is metal or wood, safety glasses should always be worn. These will help protect your eyes from debris and dust. You should never wear gloves when using these machines as the gloves can easily get tangled while the machine is in use. You should also never wear loose-fitting clothing for the same reason. If your hair is long, then you should have it tied back while using these machines. You need to wear protective footwear, preferably steel-toe boots. Some woods contain dust that can be hazardous to your health. Wear a helmet that has a respirator built in or a dust mask. Be sure to thoroughly read the manual for this machine before you attempt to use it.

 

If you need more choice of scroll chucks and other precision chucks, I recommend that you can visit Chandox Precision Industrial Co., Ltd. – the company specializes in kinds of pneumatic and hydraulic chucks. Get more details about these lathe chucks, welcome to check out their website and feel free to contact with Chandox.

 

Article Source: https://www.doityourself.com/stry/the-difference-between-metal-and-wood-lathe-chucks

The Best Crossbow Accessories and Why You Need Them

Crossbow hunting has become a very popular sport over time, and it has also opened up a lot of opportunities for those who are passionate about hunting. This hunting season, if you’re a beginner who is gearing up to start hunting, there are a few basic things you must know.

 

Most good quality crossbow hunting kits come with all the gear required, except for the broadheads, which you need to test out and pick according to your needs. Apart from that, there are also other accessories for a crossbow that can greatly make the sport a safer one, and also increase your odds of having a successful hunting trip.

 

Let’s take a look at these and understand what they help with:

 

For Better Performance:

  • Lighted Nocks – it’s a known fact that crossbow arrows travel at a great speed when they are shot. It’s almost impossible to track a moving arrow with the naked eye, and it also penetrates the target with a lot of force, so retrieving the arrow can be quite a task. Lighted nocks are a more recent invention, but even the conservatives are seeing its advantages and have started using them.

 

These nocks help with identifying your arrow once it has been shot, so it also helps with marking the trajectory. Also, these nocks are extremely lightweight and do not affect the speed or direction of the arrow in any way.

 

  • Reducing Noise – crossbow range has been designed to be very quiet and swift, but even further reduction of vibration and noise can make a significant difference to your hunting experience. There are special notice cancellation kits available that can assist with increasing the stealth and performance of your crossbow. Another great tip for reducing notice would be to use heavier broadheads or target points.

 

Improving Accuracy:

  • Scopes For Precision – a precision scope can make a lot of difference to the accuracy of your shots, and actually make the hunting process a much more feasible and convenient one. Unless you’re a thorough professional with an exceptional free-hand shot, using a scope is essential.

 

  • Support For Shooting – Shooting sticks are finally becoming popular, unlike earlier times when shooting from rest wasn’t exactly a preference amongst hunters. Shooting sticks can easily be used in the tree stand, does not obstruct the handling of the bow and also folds up very easily, making it convenient to use. For a hunting game that involves precision shots with minimal movement, they would be a very helpful assistant.

 

  • Using A Rangefinder – Judging distance and range with the naked eye can be a very tough ordeal even for an experienced shooter, so for a beginner, it can prove to be a waste of time. This is where a rangefinder comes in handy; to give accurate readings and judgement.

 

Protecting Your Equipment:

  • Case For Your Crossbow – Your crossbow’s strings, cams and wound cables require protection, especially if you’re hunting on the go and traveling a lot with it. There are a bunch of good quality cases available, and it’s definitely mandatory to have one if you want to protect the hardware of your crossbow from damages.

 

  • The CUB – it stands for Crossbow Unloading Bolt and is a great way to finish off a hunt. Target of hunting arrows can be quite expensive, so you could alternatively use a CUB which is a biodegradable, two-piece arrow that costs much lesser and is just as effective. Shooting your bow towards the end of each day can help you check the precision and functionality of your bow, so using a CUB will reduce any unnecessary costs too.

 

Some More Crossbow Accessories:

  • Sling – it can help with carrying your bow around more conveniently. Especially while going through dense forests, your bow might get caught in branches of the string might get cut, so a sling can make it more secure.

 

  • Targets – these are important for any practice session, and really do help with getting your angling and momentum right on point.

 

  • Arrow Puller – this will help with ensuring that you have a safe and proper grip while removing your crossbow arrows.

 

With all these accessories added onto your kit, there’s absolutely no way your hunting sessions won’t be memorable and interesting!

 

If you have any interest in more choice of crossbow accessories, I recommend that you can visit Man Kung Enterprise Co., Ltd. – the company specializes in kinds of archery bow and crossbow accessories. Get more details about archery products, please do not hesitate to contact with Man Kung!

 

 

Article Source: https://www.thetrustcompass.com/crossbow-accessories/

Types of Screen Changer for Plastic Machines

Screen Pack Assembly

Screen pack with breaker plate used to remove any contamination. For more details on screen pack, breaker Plate and sources of contamination you can visit article: “Screen Pack and Breaker Plate for Plastic Extruder Machine”

 

Today’s topic is how the screens are changed and what are the methods to change the screen?

 

When It’s A Need To Change The Screen?

Every plastic (extruder) machines have a load meter. Pressure increases with the blockage of screen. As screen blocks slowly with time after continuous use pressure began to rise and this rise in pressure can be noted by a pressure transducer/Gauge or by load meter. A pressure meter is used in auto screen changer and an upper limit of pressure is set. When melt pressure reach or cross that point auto screen changer get active and change the screen automatically. While in case of manual a liver connected to screen pack is used to change the blocked screen.

 

Types of Screen Changer
Manual Screen Changer FilterManual Screen Changer
In early days a pack of screen is bolted at the end of (Screw and Barrel) extruder and start of die some time an adapter is used between plastic machine (Extruder) and Die. Removal and then placing a new screen pack when need to be changed is much time consuming, difficult and an experienced person is required to perform this. To overcome these situations mainly to save time different types of screen changer are being used. Screen changer can be categorizing by following:

 

  • Manual Screen Changer With A Liver

Two screens are attached at the end of liver in such a way that if someone push the liver upward then upper screen comes at the front of extruder and when downs the liver then second screen comes in the front. At this time blocked screen is changed with new one. In these types of manual screen changers machines need to be stopped. It is the cheap equipment need less capital cost.

 

  • Auto Screen Changers:

Auto screen changers are further divided into categories

 

  1. Screen Changers with Hydraulic Arm

In these hydraulic type screens changer a hydraulic oil cylinder piston assembly is used to change the screen. It is also further divided into types like single and double piston. Single screen and two screens are on a cylinder piston assembly.

 

  1. Rotary Screen Changers

Rotary screen changer consists of a wheel with number of screens on it. It rotates in such a way that a single screen comes in front of extruder. It has advantages that process not need to be stopped to change the screen but its capital cost is high.

 

  • Continuous Screen Passing In Front of Machine Head

In this type a screen in belt like shape pass and continuous moves one side to other removing the contaminants. This type of screen changer is not very common.

 

Recommend Screen Changer Manufacturer

If you are looking for high quality auto or manual screen changers, I recommend that you can visit Hsin-Long Thread Rolling Machine Co., Ltd.… You also can find die head, bubble cage, blown film machine, blown film extruder, and much more products there. Learn more details, welcome to check out Hsin Long’s website and feel free to contact them.

 

By the way, grand event Taipei PLAS 2018 is coming soon from 15 to 19, Aug. Hsin Long will also as exhibitor attend this event. Their booth No. is L0226. If you have any interest in blown film extrusion and manual screen changer, please do not miss Taipei PLAS 2018. Look forward to seeing you at Taipei Nangang Exhibition Center, Hall 1.

 

 

Article Source: http://hassanplas.com/types-of-screen-changer-for-plastic-machines/

Introduction of Globe Valves

Cast Steel Globe Valve

A globe valves is a linear motion valve and are primarily designed to stop, start and regulate flow. The disk of a Globe valve can be totally removed from the flowpath or it can completely close the flowpath.

 

Conventional Globe valves may be used for isolation and throttling services. Although these valves exhibit slightly higher pressure drops than straight=through valves (e.g., gate, plug, ball, etc.), they may be used where the pressure drop through the valve is not a controlling factor.

 

Because the entire system pressure exerted on the disc is transferred to the valve stem, the practical size limit for these valves is NPS 12 (DN 300). Globe valves larger than NPS 12 (DN 300) are an exception rather than the rule. Larger valves would require that enormous forces be exerted on the stem to open or close the valve under pressure. Globe valves in sizes up to NPS 48 (DN 1200) have been manufactured and used.

 

Globe valves are extensively employed to control flow. The range of flow control, pressure drop, and duty must be considered in the design of the valve to avert premature failure and to assure satisfactory service. Valves subjected to high-differential pressure-throttling service require specially designed valve trim.

 

Generally the maximum differential pressure across the valve disc should not exceed 20 percent of the maximum upstream pressure or 200 psi (1380 kPa), whichever is less. Valves with special trim may be designed for applications exceeding these differential pressure limits.

 

Advantages

  • Can be fast-acting
  • Precise control
  • Can be used in high-pressure systems

 

Disadvantages

  • High head loss
  • Large opening for disk assembly
  • Heavier than other valves
  • Cantilevered mounting of the disk to the stem
  • Low coefficient of flow
  • Not good for clean or sterile applications

 

The most common application of the globe valve is a standard water faucet. When the handle is turned, a disc is lowered or raised. When the disc is fully lowered, the water supply is shut off.

 

Typical Applications Of Globe Valves Include:

  • Cooling water systems where flow needs to be regulated
  • Fuel oil systems where flow is regulated and watertightness is of importance
  • High-point vents and low-point drains when watertightness and safety are major considerations
  • Feedwater, chemical feed, condenser air extraction and extraction drain systems
  • Boiler vents and drains, main steam vents and drains, and heater drains
  • Turbine seals and drains
  • Turbine lube oil system

 

If you need more choice of globe valves, I recommend that you can visit Nico Valves Corp. – the company specializes in kinds of high quality valves including cast steel globe valve, gate valve, check valve, threaded valve, and much more. Now, welcome to check out Nico’s website and feel free to contact them.

 

Article Source: https://2bnews.wordpress.com/2018/07/10/introduction-of-globe-valves-2/

Buying a Lathe: Spindles and Tailstocks

A key consideration when buying a new turning machine involves its spindle. Here’s an overview of what you need to know.

 

After considering what sorts of workpieces your turning machine will need to handle, and taking a good look at tooling options, it’s a good time to cover what kinds of spindles lathes might have, and what factors are good to keep in mind when choosing a new machine.

 

Belt-Driven or Direct-Drive Spindles

The spindle on a turning center is either belt-driven or direct-drive. Generally, belt-driven spindles represent older technology. They speed up and slow down at a lower rate than direct-drive spindles, which means cycle times can be longer. If you’re turning small-diameter parts, the time it takes to ramp the spindle from 0 to 6,000 rpm is significant. In fact, it might take twice as long to reach this speed than with a direct-drive spindle.

 

A small degree of positional inaccuracy may occur with belt-driven spindles, because the belt between the drive and the positional encoders creates a lag. With integral direct-drive spindles, this is not the case. Ramping up and down with a direct drive-spindle happens at a high rate, and the positional accuracy also is high, a significant benefit when using C-axis travel on live-tooling machines.

 

A2 Spindle Noses

Lathes are designed to have an American Standard spindle nose on the front of the spindle motor. Tapered spindle noses come in various sizes to hold the chuck or threaded spindle mount. A2 and B2 are both short-taper spindles; the only difference between them is the method in which the chuck is mounted. Type L refers to long-taper spindles and Type D features a camlock mounting used on many engine-lathe spindles.

 

The good news is, your machine tool manufacturer has the spindle nose selection worked out based on the size of the chuck, diameter of barstock you intend to machine and the horsepower needed. The spindle nose will be properly sized for the machine.

 

Spindle Speeds, Horsepower and Torque

Today’s CNC lathes are designed for specific ranges of stock diameters. Basically, you buy a machine to cut a specific, maximum workpiece diameter. If you’re cutting 2-inch-diameter barstock, the machine will be designed for running small diameters using higher-speed, 6,000-rpm spindles, and with the right amount of horsepower and torque.

 

Generally, big lathes have high torque (twisting power) due to the weight of the mass spinning in the chuck. As a rule, the bigger the workpiece and the slower the spindle speed, the more torque required.

 

If the parts you are running require a machine with a 10-inch, big-bore chuck, the spindle will be designed to deliver slower speeds at more horsepower. This creates the torque to take bigger cuts for more stock removal. As the cutter gets closer to the center of the stock, the machine will automatically speed up to, say, 700 rpm to maintain the proper surface footage. Obviously, it doesn’t make sense to use a big-bore lathe to do small-diameter work.

 

The operation that typically requires peak horsepower is heavy-duty, inner-diameter work, such as using big drills to make holes in the barstock before finish-boring. In this case, Z-axis horsepower might be the limiting factor. For example, a 2-inch drill may require a 20-hp spindle motor to get the force needed to perform this operation.

 

Programmable Tailstocks

A built-in, numerically controlled tailstock can be a valuable feature for automated processes. A fully programmable tailstock provides more rigidity and thermal stability. However, the tailstock casting adds weight to the machine.

 

There are two basic types of programmable tailstocks—servo-driven and hydraulic. Servo-driven tailstocks are convenient, but the weight they can hold may be limited. Typically, a hydraulic tailstock has a retractable quill with a 6-inch stroke. The quill also can be extended to support a heavy workpiece, and do so with more force than a servo-driven tailstock can apply. This is an advantage if you’re machining a piece that weighs, let’s say, 2,000 pounds. Using the programmable tailstock to push the part helps support its weight in the chuck.

 

If you have any interest in tailstocks, I recommend that you can visit Spintop Machinery Co., Ltd... You can find kinds of high quality tailstocks such as faceplate tailstock, automatic tailstock, center tailstock, and manual tailstock there. Get more details, please do not hesitate to check out Topsdisk’s website and feel free to contact them.

 

 

Article Source: https://www.mmsonline.com/blog/post/buying-a-lathe-spindles-and-tailstocks