Agriculture Will Help Drive Global Hydraulic Cylinder Market To 4% A Year Growth

Growing food requirements to sustain increased populations means the agriculture industry will need sophisticated equipment to carry out effective agricultural processes

 

A new report forecast the global hydraulic cylinder market will grow at a CAGR of 4.39% between now and 2020. The hydraulic cylinder industry will see a steady growth during the forecast period due to a continuous demand from the agriculture, construction equipment, mining equipment, material handling equipment, industrial equipment, aerospace, and defence sectors.

 

The report titled “Global Hydraulic Cylinder Market 2016-2020” was released by Research and Marketsand focuses on the current state of the market and the growth prospects of the global hydraulic cylinder market for 2016-2020.

 

According to the report, one of the primary drivers in the market is raising demand for food and fiber to drive agriculture industry. The burst in population figures suggests that by 2050 the population will expand up to nine billion. In order to cater to the growing food requirements to sustain such a large population, the agriculture industry will need sophisticated equipment to carry out effective agricultural processes; the agriculture industry will grow at 3.61% CAGR annually. The mechanization of agricultural processes will help increase the sale of agricultural hydraulic cylinders.

 

To calculate the market size, the report discusses major drivers that are influencing market growth and challenges faced by vendors and the market as a whole.

 

One of latest trends in the market is raising popularity of integrated solution and services. The report says: “Vendors are more focused on providing integrated solutions to its customers. They offer both the product (hydraulic cylinders’ system) and solutions to differentiate themselves from other market vendors.

 

“Integrated solutions help achieve profitable maintenance and aftermarket service revenue. This also strengthens the vendor-client relation. In an integrated system, all components of a hydraulic system such as hydraulic cylinder, valve, and pump are sold as a single unit or kit. For end-users, this solution helps reduce the time frame of procurement. Clients react favorably to solutions that offer better outcome with enhanced performance. These systems provide users with efficiency, engineering, and purchase solution. This lowers the overall operational cost and lead times.”

 

 

By the way, if you want to learn more details about agricultural hydraulic cylinders, I recommend that you can visit the website of ASHUN Fluid Power Co., Ltd... It is the company of specializing in kinds of hydraulic cylinders. Try to check out ASHUN’s product pages to see what products they can offer you.

 

 

Article Source: https://www.africabig7.com/news-articles/global-hydraulic-cylinder-market-to-grow-4-per-cent-a-year-until-2020/

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6 Major Furnace Controls

Gas furnaces are the most popular type of furnace installed in residential homes. They are equipped with many controls to make sure safe and efficient operation. It is important to check the furnace specifications and manuals to properly understand how the controls work. Here are five major furnace controls found on a residential gas furnace.

 

Gas Pressure Regulator

 

Because the gas from the main line is subject to different pressures, a gas pressure regulator ensures a consistent gas pressure into the burner manifold. This is usually located in between the supply tank and the main gas valve. This ensures your furnace receives the right amount of gas to burn; not too weak and not too much.

 

Main Gas Valve

 

Just like a gas pressure regulator is needed so is a main gas valve. Its main function is to control the flow of gas from the outside supply line or storage tank to the gas burner. They come in many different shapes and sizes and usually located behind the front panel of the furnace. The gas valves will include a safety shutoff valve that allows you to turn off the main gas line and the pilot gas. In a modern furnace that does not have a standing-pilot light, these main gas valves are called electronic ignition gas valves.

 

Mercury Flame Sensor

 

You will find a mercury flame sensor in a newer furnace with an electronic ignition system. It is made up of a mercury-filled sense end, a capillary tube and an SPDT switch assembly. The sensor end is filled with mercury and heats up from the direct burner flame. When heated, the mercury liquid triggers the switch and opens the gas valve.

 

Thermostat

 

A room thermostat is the main control of when a furnace operates based on the temperature of the room. A thermostat senses changes in air temperature that is being heated and send an electrical signal to open or close the automatic gas valve of your furnace. Most thermostats are wired with the pilot safety valve, limit control and the automatic main gas valve.

 

Thermocouple

 

A thermocouple is the safety device used to detect whether the pilot light is is lit before the main gas valve is opened to supply gas to the burners. A Thermocouple uses a heat-sensing device that senses the heat from the pilot light and then converts it into an electric current allowing gas into your furnace to ignite.

 

Thermopile

 

Sometimes called a thermopile generator or millivolt generator, a thermopile is another safety device for the main gas line and pilot light. Just like a thermocouple, the heat-sensing device is used to detect the pilot light is on. A thermopile is larger and delivers more electricity than a thermocouple. The advantage of a thermopile is it does not require a transformer.

 

Established in 1989, Alpha Brass Controls operates under ISO 9001:2008 and its laboratory cooperates with CSA and CE testing bodies to manufacture commercial gas valves and provides solutions of thermostat, safety valves, and various gas valves for professional cooking industry. If you are looking for related products, please do not miss the website of Alpha Brass Controls.

 

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/7420818

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Recommendable Solar Panel Manufacturer – Power Master

What is Solar Energy?

By definition, solar energy is energy derived from the sun. The energy can be used directly to heat, and light homes or it can be converted into electricity using solar energy technologies like solar panels. People are increasingly investing in solar energy to save on out-of-pocket costs and get rid of dangerous and expensive power lines.

 

This energy can be harnessed by installing solar panels that can reduce our dependence on other countries for consistent supply of coal to produce electricity. This makes it an attractive energy prospect for most countries that are looking to go completely green in the future.

 

Where to Find The Right Solar Panel?

 

If you are looking for the excellent solar panel manufacturer, I recommend that you can consider Power Master Technology Co., Ltd.

 

This company was established in 1999. Power Master is specializing in Modified and Pure Sine Wave Power Inverters, Solar inverter, Inverter with built in Battery Charger, On Line & Off Line UPS, and designed three stage Battery Chargers.

 

The company with industry integration expertise provides professional solution to accommodate customers’ specific needs in home and office appliances, mobile applications, marine, solar power applications, wind power, electronic equipment, and various applications.

 

If you are interested in learning further details about Power Master solar panel manufacturer, try to check out their website and feel free to send inquiry to them.

 

Article Source: Various Advantages of Solar Energy – Conserve Energy Future

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Basic Information of Tool Holders and Static Tool Holders

Tool holders (toolholders) are the physical interface between tooling and the machine tool. They come in a multiple of different machine mount styles from the older R8 style to newer HSK or VDI mount.

 

Tool holders have three main parts: the taper, the flange, and the collet pocket. Driven or “live” tooling is powered, while static tool holder is not.

 

  • The taper is the conically-shaped area of the tool holder that enters the spindle during tool changing.
  • The flange is the part of the tool holder to which the automatic tool changer is attached when the tool holder is moved from the tool changer to the spindle.
  • The collet pocket is the area into which the collet is inserted before being secured by various types of collet nuts.

 

Some tool holders shrink-fit around the machine tool or cutting tool and remain firmly in place. Others are optimized to the smallest size possible to allow for maximum clearances during machining.

 

Tool Holder Types

Industrial buyers can find these types of tool holders at some manufacturers:

 

  • Machine arbors are motor-driven shafts that turn machine tools.
  • Blank adapters can be customized for specific applications or machining tasks.
  • Boring heads can hold a variety of cutting tools, but are used mainly with boring bars.
  • Collet chucks use collets of various sizes to hold machine tools.
  • End mill holders are designed to holdend mills during milling operations.
  • Milling or drilling chucks are used to hold various cutting tools during milling or drilling applications.
  • Outer diameter (OD) and inner diameter (ID) tool holders can hold a variety of cutting tools.
  • Shell or face mill adaptors are designed to hold shell or face mills, tools used to cut surfaces.
  • Side cutter holders are designed to hold side cutter tools.
  • Saw blade holders are designed to hold saw blades.
  • Tapping chucks are designed to hold tapping tools for threading operations.

 

Mounting Styles

When selecting tool holders, buyers need to specify a mounting style.

 

  • R8 is used by a majority of Bridgeport machines manufactured after 1965; however, this taper is seldom used with today’s high speed machining (HSM) equipment.

 

  • Morse taper (MT) is available in four common sizes: #1, #2, #3, and #4. Each size has a tapered fit for fast changes.

 

  • National Machine Tool Builders (NMTB) defined the NMTB taper for all CNC milling machines. The standard is 3.5 in. per ft. and can require a drawbar.

 

  • Caterpillar®developed the CAT® mounting style, sometimes called the V-flange, to standardize the tooling for its machines. Designations such as CAT-40, CAT-50 and CAT-60 refer to the NMTB taper size. (Caterpillar and CAT are registered trademarks of Caterpillar, Inc.)

 

  • BT is similar to CAT, but is balanced and symmetrical around the axis of rotation. BT uses the same NMTB body-taper measurement notations but uses a metric pull-stud thread.

 

  • Hollow shank tooling (HSK) is designed to increase grip as spindle speed increases. It does not have a pull stud and is often used with HSM. VDI is designed for quick-change tooling and is available in both dovetail and straight-shank versions.

 

  • Tool holders that use base mount tooling (BMT) and straight shank tooling are also available.

 

Tool Holder Sizes

The projection length of the tool holder is the distance from the gage line (the reference mounting surface) to the end of the tool holder. If specifying a collet pocket is applicable, buyers can choose an ER or TG type.

 

Features and Applications

Tool holders can be coolant-fed or have a coolant-thru flange. Some are optimized to the smallest size possible to allow for maximum clearances during machining. Each tool holder is designed for a specific application and tailored to optimize both machine performance and operational efficiency.

 

Tool Holder Manufacturer

Where to find the excellent tool holder manufacturer? I will say Shin-Yain Industrial Co., Ltd. is the recommendable static tool holder manufacturer. The company is specializing in numerous tool holders, like collet holder, static tool holder, CAT tool holder, BT tool holder etc. all can be found. If you have any interest, try to check out SYIC’s website and send inquiry to them.

 

 

Article Source: Tool Holders Information | Engineering360

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Excetek : The Certificate of 2017 D&B TOP 1000 SMEs Elite Award

The Certificate of 2017 D&B TOP 1000 SMEs Elite Award

Congratulations! Excetek is awarded the Certificate of 2017 D&B TOP 1000 SMEs Elite Award.

The Certificate of 2017 D&B TOP 1000 SMEs Elite Award
With 11 years of experience manufacturing Wire Cutting EDM, Die Sinking EDM, and Small Hole Drilling EDM, Excetek always sticks to the principle of trustworthy and Innovative. In 2017, Excetek has received a further recognition from Dun & Bradstreet (D&B): the Certificate of 2017 D&B TOP 1000 SMEs Elite Award.

 

This award attests to Excetek’s excellence in the industry. Excetek would like to proudly attribute this honor to all of our customers around the world. Excetek could not be growing in the EDM machines industry without our customers’ supports.

 

Dun & Bradstreet

Dun & Bradstreet was founded in 1984, and is the world’s leading source of business information and insight, with a commercial database of some 230 million enterprises around the world.

 

The award was presented to Taiwan’s top 1000 small- and medium-sized enterprises (SME), in recognition of their growth and contribution to the country’s economy. And these companies will continue to drive the local economy.

 

Learn more information about Excetek or Dun & Bradstreet, try to check out below:

 

Excetek Technologies Co., Ltd.

Website: http://www.excetek.com

 

Dun & Bradstreet

Website: http://event.dnb.com.tw/

 

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Press Brakes vs. Folding Machines – Which Is Right for You?

There is a lot happening on the fabrication floor. Often time’s conflicts arise as to which machine to use for certain jobs and this can lead to confusion.

 

While at first glance it may seem like press brake machines and folding machines are the same tool made to tackle the same jobs, the truth is that they both have their niche and should have a place in your factory.

 

Let’s take a look at the two fabrication tools and see just how alike and different they really are:

 

Press Brakes

The first thing that sets a press brake machine apart from a folding machine is the most obvious: force. The punch of a press brake uses a lot of force, which means it is geared for heavier and thicker sheets of metal. It still offers precision and accuracy, but it just does so with much more substantial sheets of metal.

 

This means that press brake machines will produce stronger pieces meant for support. Also, press brakes should probably be used for applications that only require one tooling setup.

 

Folding Machines

While folding machines also bend metal, the difference between it and a press brake is how that bend is achieved. Folding machines use much less force, leading it to be used for much thinner sheets.

 

Where the force of a press brake could potentially scratch and damage a very thin sheet, a folding machine is much more delicate and produces items where look and style are paramount.

 

Folding machines will be much better and quicker with panel work of all sizes. They are also better for jobs require multiple tooling changes.

 

Can They Coexist?

Absolutely. It can be very beneficial to have both on your fabrication floor in more ways than one. While a press brake machine can handle panel work, it is going to require more time to tackle a project that a folding could knock out more accurately and with fewer operators.

 

Folding machines can free up your press brake machine by taking on smaller, more delicate tasks and allow it to be more productive – think of it as a companion instead of a replacement.

 

Reliable Hydraulic Press Brake Machine Manufacturer

Yeh Chiun Industrial Co., Ltd. is the outstanding press brake machines supplying expert in the industry. If you are interested in learning more information about hydraulic press brake machines, do not hesitate to contact with Yeh Chiun.

 

 

Article Source: http://www.fab-line.com/press-brake-vs-folding-machine-which-is-right-for-you/

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Repair and Replacement of a Toilet Flush Valve

The toilet flush valve is a key element in the toilet tank. The flush valve is not at fault very often.

 

The toilet flapper can cause the toilet to run intermittently or not flush correctly. Before you assume it is the flush valve make sure the flapper is not the culprit.

 

It includes a fill tube and the flapper and water inlet for the toilet bowl. Most replacement kits include a new gasket for the tank and bolts to hold the tank in place. You will want to replace the flush valve if the seal between the tank and the bowl is leaking and does not respond to tightening. Or if the flapper will not seat even after being replaced.

 

Replacing a Toilet Flush Valve

Draining the Tank

Draining the toilet tank is the first thing you want to do before working on a flush valve. Toilet tanks have a lot of water in them that can get everywhere. It is clean water, but still, it makes a mess.

 

Turn off the water supply to the toilet first. Most tanks have a fill line marked on the side of the tank. Some do not. You can use a marker to put a mark at the correct water level if it is missing. The new flush valve tube may be a different height than the old one.

 

With the water turned off, flush the toilet to drain out most of the water from the tank. Place a pail below the nut for the toilet tank inlet. Loosen the nut on the water supply line. If the water is off, you should not get much water from the supply line.

 

There will be about an inch of water left in the bottom of the tank. Sopping the water up with rags will be a tedious task. The best way to finish draining the tank is to loosen the nut to the toilet fill valve. Loosen the nut to the fill valve and let the water drain into the pail.

 

Any water that you do not remove is likely to wind up on the floor. Removing the toilet flush valve will completely open up the bottom of the tank. Draining the toilet tank prior to this step is important.

 

Removing the Toilet Tank Bolts

Removing toilet tank bolts begins with the right tools. The tops of the bolts usually take a large flat blade screwdriver. On the underside of the bolts you may find brass or plastic nuts. The plastic nuts may have wings on them that allow you to hold them with your fingers, this is nice feature.

 

Depending on the configuration of your toilet, you might need an adjustable wrench, box end wrench or even a deep socket wrench.

 

You may have gotten a tool with the toilet that was used to tighten these nuts. Your builder or plumber may have thrown it away. Finding it now may be a challenge. Before you begin, try to locate wrenches that you can use on the nuts in question.

 

The tank is held onto the base by two or three bolts that are visible from inside the tank. Many times you can hold the plastic nuts with your fingers. Loosed and remove both bolts. That’s all there is to it, the tank should be free. Place a piece of cardboard on the floor and pull the tank up from the base. Lay it on its back on the cardboard.

 

Removing the Flush Valve

After you have removed the tank from the base, removing a toilet flush valve is pretty easy. Lay the tank on its back to see the washer and nut for the flush valve.

 

Before you purchase a flush valve, make sure you know the size. Most of them are a nominal 3″ or 4″ diameter. If you are not certain, you want to take the old flush valve with you to match it up.

 

Certain brands of toilets have proprietary flush valves that only fit that brand of toilet. This is usually only true of more expensive toilets. If you are in doubt, check the internet for your model of toilet to see which flush valve it takes.

 

Remove the rubber washer from the base of the tank. There is a large plastic nut that holds the flush valve in place. Use a large pair of adjustable pliers to remove the nut, holding the valve assembly from the inside of the tank.

 

Remove the tubing that is connected to the top of the flush valve tube. Remove the large nut and the flush valve should be free. Remove and discard the old flush valve along with the flapper. You should have gotten a new one with the flush valve kit.

 

Installing a New Flush Valve

By this time you should have the old flush valve removed. Before installing the toilet flush valve you want to get the instructions for the new one. Follow the instructions on the new valve to properly locate the washers and nut.

 

Put the new flush valve into the tank and orient it appropriately the same way the old one was. There should be a washer between the valve and the tank, if it is supplied loose you will need to put it on. Put the plastic nut on and tighten it down.

 

Obviously, with plastic fittings you want to exercise some caution with tightening them. On the other hand, make sure the nut is snug. If you get a leak from this connection, you will have to start all over again. Yes that is correct, you won’t know until it is all put together and you turn the water on.

 

Place the main seal over the outlet and push it up to the bottom of the tank. Attach the tubing at the top of the fill valve. At this point the inside of the tank should look similar to how it was when you took it apart.

 

Replacing the Toilet Tank

You may want a little help replacing the toilet tank. It is fairly heavy with all of the parts inside. In addition, it is a little awkward to handle.

 

Put the tank back on the toilet base and start the bolts and washers through the holes. Put the wing nuts on and snug them up finger tight. Hold the wing nuts and use the screwdriver to tighten the bolts.

 

Tighten them down evenly, switching back and forth. Do not over tighten. Make sure the tank is secure.

 

Hook the flapper chain to the tank lever making sure that there is no slack. It should operate freely, up and down.

 

Make sure the nut for the fill valve is snug and then hook up the water supply. Tighten the nut for the water supply line, don’t over tighten it, and remember it is plastic. Turn the water back on and check for leaks. First check the water supply and then the main seal. No leaks, good. The float for the tank should still be set at the proper height.

 

When the tank stops filling, check the water level. Too low, adjust the float until the tank fills to the correct level. After that, flush the toilet. All your problems should be solved.

 

Summary

So replacing a toilet flush valve is a little bit of work. Taking the tank off sounds a little scary at first. Once you are past that it is a breeze. One big plastic nut and a few bolts to tighten. You have to do a leak check, but that’s not hard.

 

All done, toilets works great, Good Job! This is a home repair has a higher level of difficulty. By following the instructions and taking your time you were able to do it. What’s even better is that you saved some money, great.

 

If you are looking for high quality toilet flush valves, I recommend that you can visit the website of Kingsway Technology Inc. The company provides electronic flush valves both for toilet and urinal uses. Its products feature easy installation to convert manual flush valve to automation. Kingsway is the best choice of automatic sanitary products manufacturer for you.

 

 

Article Source: http://www.home-repair-central.com/repair-and-replacement-of-a-toilet-flush-valve.html

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Fillet Brazing vs. TIG Welding Frame

Brazing, a lower temperature process than welding, uses a bronze rod to create a fillet–a French word for ribbon–pronounced FILL-it (not fill-LAY). It was previously thought higher welding temperatures would ruin good tubing. We now know because welding is faster, the damaging effect of higher temperature is mitigated by shorter heat duration. While disagreements about the relative merits of lower temperature vs. shorter duration continue, a properly fillet-brazed joint will certainly have greater accident “survivability.” For example, if you run into a tree or parked car, a fillet-brazed joint is less likely to fail. Either joint will withstand decades of normal use.

 

Because the bronze fillet is softer than the steel tubing it joins, a skilled craftsman can sculpt a brazed joint without cutting into the tube. Please note that the quality of this sculpting (or craftsmanship) is highly variable–look for large smooth fillets with compound radii and long feathered edges. Beware of “overbite.” Overbite, a result of hurried or sloppy work, is where part of the steel tube has been carelessly filed away at the edge of the fillet. This creates a stress riser that can lead to frame failure. Unfortunately, overbite is a common flaw found on many fillet brazed frames.

Y10R01 CR-MO FILLET BRAZED FRAME

Unavoidable downside of fillet brazing #1: Price.

 

Because fillet brazed construction requires much more time and skill, the price of a properly fillet brazed tandem frame will be $300-$500 higher. If the price differential is lower, inspect the joints carefully before taking delivery. Because of the price, most bicycle customers choose a TIG welded frame.

 

Unavoidable downside of fillet brazing #2: Weight.

 

A filleted joint, like a lugged joint, is slightly heavier than a TIG-welded joint (4oz penalty on a single bike, 12oz penalty on a tandem).

 

Because a properly fillet brazed frame is the ultimate hallmark of a skilled frame builder, the best reason to buy a fillet-brazed frame is because you value the artistry and can appreciate the builder’s skill.

 

If you need more information about fillet brazed frame, I can recommend that you can visit the website of MAXWAY Cycles Co., Ltd… The company is specializing in producing kinds of bike frames such as city bike frames, cyclocross bike frames, fillet brazed frame, MTB bicycle frames, trekking bike frame, etc. More details about bicycle frames, please feel free to send inquiry to MAXWAY.

 

 

Article Source: http://www.gtgtandems.com/tech/brazing.html

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The Utilization of Vertical Injection Molding Machines

When it comes to making items that combine light weight, durability, and pleasing shape, look and feel, there’s nothing that quite matches modern plastics. And this is especially true of hand-held items, such as small electronic appliances, where providing ergonomic shape and a grippy, easy-to-hold surface are particularly important.

 

Whether they’re GPS receivers, medical devices, toys, or even kitchen utensils, the best way to produce such items is through the process of over molding. It involves the molding of two different plastics, one on top of, or around, the other, so as to produce what amounts to a single, unified structure that’s strong on the inside yet flexible, colorful, and easy to hold on the outside.

 

Benefits of over molded plastics devices include:

 

  • More Resistant To Shock
  • More Resistant To Water
  • More Resistant To Dust And Vapor
  • More Resistant To Vibration
  • Make Devices More Comfortable To Use
  • Make Devices Just Plain Prettier

 

By now, over molding is a standard process in the injection molding industry, but some methods of executing the process is superior to others. The challenge is to make sure the two pieces, rigid substrate and outer elastomer, to fit together just so, with no gaps, no slack, no possibility of slippage and with no chance of one part pulling on and distorting the shape or integrity of the other. Getting these two molded parts to match up just right takes a good deal of skill and experience. No adhesives can be used, and there should be no manual assembly steps involved, either – it’s mainly a matter of making molds that create a perfect fit and then performing the actual molding process with extreme precision.

 

And it’s here that the right machinery also helps a great deal. Indeed, the best way to produce over-molded parts is with a vertical injection molding machine. It relies on the gentle force of gravity to clamp the inner and outer parts together.

 

That’s different from a horizontal injection molding machine, which relies on mechanical clamping, a method that requires more time and effort and raises the risk of improper fit: Gravity’s pull is always there, always trying to dislocate parts in a horizontal mold. The vertical mold simply takes advantage of gravity instead of trying to fight it.

 

Vertical injection molding equipment is designed with open clamps and rotary tables, which gives them the advantage of being able to work with multiple molds and simultaneous operations such as pre-molding, injection-, and post-molding. The result: less need for manual intervention, greater efficiency, greater productivity, and less cost. What’s more, vertical molding machines often save significant space on the factory floor.

 

In short, vertical injection molding is the method of choice when it comes to producing high-strength, high-touch parts for the electronics, medical, military, and similarly demanding industries.

 

More information about vertical injection molding machine, try to visit the website of Multiplas Enginery Co., Ltd... Multiplas is a leading industrial solutions provider that offers versatile moulding solutions, innovative design and manufactures for the production systems, and provides comprehensive technical support services to the customers committed in 3C electronics, electrical, automotive, medical / optical, and other technical moulding sectors. If you have any interest, please feel free to send inquiry or contact them directly.

 

 

Article Source: http://info.crescentind.com/blog/bid/40004/Over-molding-and-the-utilization-of-vertical-vertical-injection-molding-machines

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Choosing a Spray Gun – A Complete Guide

The intent of this article is to cover all the important things to consider and provide information to help you choose the right spray gun for you.

 

If you are just getting started in spray application you may be over whelmed by all the variables that are to be considered. From choosing the right coating, to safety considerations when spraying, to choosing the actual spray equipment. If you have been able to wade through the choices you may be at the point that you have decided you will be using a spray gun and want to determine which spray gun will best meet your needs.

 

Variable 1 – Fluid Viscosity

 

Viscosity is usually referenced as low, medium or high but if you do not have the viscosity of your coating provided you can also use a measuring device like a Zahn cup which will give you a reading in seconds. You can then use a conversion chart to determine the viscosity of a given coating. Most spray gun manufacturers including Binks and Devilbiss will often list the proper spray gun set up based on the coating viscosity you will spray using a certain cup like for the Trophy Gun the viscosity is listed in seconds in a Zahn 2 Cup. You can also often get a spray gun recommendation on the technical data sheet for your coating. However if you will be spraying a variety of coatings then having a general reference point of the coating type and viscosity of the coating will give you the ability to reference what spray gun setup might be ideal.  In general certain types of spray guns are better suited for heavy viscosity coatings than others.

 

For high viscosity coatings like zincs, enamels, ceramics, or glues you will typically want to use a conventional spray gun. Or if you need to spray even heavier bodied coatings or need higher production then you will often want to consider an Airless or Air Assist Airless.

 

For other coatings it will depend on your finish requirements. HVLP will help reduce the coating you use by having higher transfer efficiency. LVMP will allow for similar transfer efficiency to HVLP but may not meet environmental regulations in certain industries, conventional will provide the finest atomization but can use twice as much paint in a given time that HVLP will.

 

In addition to having implications for the type of gun to choose, viscosity will also be important in determining how fluid is delivered in a spray gun. The three ways to feed paint to a spray gun include pressure, suction, or gravity. Each feed method has its benefits and limitations. In general Gravity feed spray guns will keep waste to a minimum and provide ease of use. However to use a gravity feed spray gun the material must be thin enough to flow easily. Suction feed spray guns will have similar fluid flow requirements to gravity fed spray guns. Suction fed spray guns do offer potential agitators which can be helpful for coatings that require agitation. Suction feed spray guns will require slightly more cleaning. If your coating is highly viscous you will most often need a pressure fed spray gun. Pressure feed spray guns can supply highly viscous coatings easily making them the ideal choice for high viscosity coatings.

 

Variable 2 – Production Requirements

In addition to a variety of feed methods and air cap styles, high quality spray guns have a variety of set ups available. By offering larger air caps and fluid nozzles you will be able to choose a spray gun that will be able to provide the production level you need or if a spray gun is not fast enough you may want to consider an airless.  You can get an idea of what production you can expect out of various fluid nozzles here. The Air Cap you choose will determine a few important things including the size of the spray pattern and the caps ability to break up heavy viscosity coatings the higher the CFM of the air cap typically the heavier bodied coating it will atomize. BY knowing your production requirement you can be better able to choose the right fluid nozzle and air cap

 

In addition to choosing the air cap and fluid nozzle the Production requirement will be pertinent in choosing how you feed your spray gun. Pressure pots offer higher volumes of coating which can be ideal if you will be spraying more than a gallon of paint at a time. They also provide greater control over your fluid and air pressures which can help in meeting a production goal. Or if you need the ability to continuously paint you can feed your spray gun from a diaphragm pump or fluid transfer pump. If you will be painting in small quantities and not have coatings with high viscosity then gravity or siphon feed spray gun could be ideal.

 

Variable 3 – Compressed Air Availability

Different spray equipment will need different amounts of air. A typical spray gun can require 20 CFM of air while an airless can often require significantly more if it is air fed using up to 120 CFM. You can learn more about compressor requirements for spray equipment here.

 

Variable 4 – Finish Quality Requirements

A final variable to consider is the finish requirements you will need. Spray guns are typically the best appearing finishes. If the coatings are not highly viscous most of the times you can achieve an automotive quality break up of a coating with HVLP, Conventional, or LVMP.

 

However with heavier bodied coatings you will typically need a conventional gun to get good break up. An air assist airless will provide a finish that is close to a spray gun but not quite the fine finish, they are often used for higher production that requires a quality finish. If you primary need high production or spraying high solids coatings you will typically need an airless.

 

Variable 5 – Length and Diversity of Use

Spray guns vary greatly in their prices as well as their quality. Higher quality spray guns offer greater variety of air caps, fluid nozzles, and are able to be completely rebuilt. Lower cost spray guns will often not be rebuild able and have limitations on the variety of set ups that are available. You can learn more about spray gun prices and quality differences here.

 

Conclusion

Choosing the right spray gun for your coating can be a lot to consider. By knowing more about your finish quality, production, compressed air, and viscosity of your paint you will be able to better determine the right spray equipment for you.

 

By the way, if you want to find quality spray guns, I can recommend that you can try to visit the website of the professional spray gun manufacturer – KSPARK International Ltd... The company is specializing in kinds of air spray guns, air blow gun, mini compressor, and much more… For more details about spray gun series, welcome to check out Kspark’s website: www.kspark-spraygun.com to see what products they can offer you.

 

 

Article Source: https://www.pittsburghsprayequip.com/2016/07/13/choosing-a-spray-gun-complete-guide/

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