How to Overhaul A Bottom Bracket

How to disassemble, re-grease, reassemble and adjust a cup and cone bottom bracket.

 

Today we’ll learn how to overhaul and re-grease an adjustable bike bracket. There is something you need to prepare.

 

  • To remove the cranks you’ll need a crank puller, a 17mm open end wrench and a large adjustable wrench.
  • To overhaul the bottom bracket you’ll need a bottom bracket wrench or a pin spanner, a hooked lock ring wrench, and a 36mm wrench.
  • For re-greasing the bearings you’ll need some cleaning solvent and waterproof grease, a rag, a toothbrush and a small container to clean the bearing cages.

 

Disassemble

 

Begin by removing the cranks. Once the cranks are removed, loosen and remove the lock ring on the non-drive or left side of the bike by turning counter-clockwise. Once the locking is removed you should be able to easily loosen and un-thread the bearing race using either a pin spanner or a bicycle bracket wrench.

 

Now pull the spindle and both bearing cages out of the frame. It’s important to remember which way the spindle came out, as they are directional. The drive side usually has a longer distance from the bearing race to the end of the threads. Wipe off the bearing cages, drop them into the solvent, and let them soak while you use your rag to clean the spindle and both outer bearing races.

 

Tighten the drive-side bearing race by turning it counter-clockwise with your 36mm wrench. Unless you are replacing the bottom bracket, there is no need to remove it.

 

Inspect

 

Shine a flashlight into your bike bracket shell to inspect the bearing race for pitting and wear. Inspect your other bearing race and then carefully inspect the spindle. Most wear occurs on the spindle’s bearing races. If you see pitting here you should take it to your local bike shop for a replacement.

 

Clean

 

Now clean both bearing cages with a toothbrush and solvent, and then set them aside to air-dry. These should also be replaced if they are worn or have bent cages.

 

Grease

 

Apply a layer of grease on both bearing races and cages. A grease gun makes it easy to squirt grease inside the gaps between the bearings. Then place the bearing cages into both races. The rounded side of the cage should be facing down into the bearing race. Seal them in with another layer of grease.

 

Reassemble

 

Now insert the spindle the same way you removed it. Wipe off any excess grease that comes out on the spindle. Grease the threads inside the bottom bracket shell, and then slide the outer race and bearing cage onto the spindle. Thread it on all the way clockwise but don’t tighten it. Again you’ll need to wipe off excess grease.

 

Adjust

 

Thread on the lock ring finger-tight. Before adjusting the bottom bracket, first install the drive-side crank arm and tighten it as shown in the crank installation tutorial. This will help us make a proper adjustment. Now hold the inner race firmly with your wrench or spanner and tighten the lock ring. When properly adjusted the spindle should spin smoothly. If it doesn’t, you’ll have to loosen the lock ring, back off the inner race a little bit, and then tighten it again.

 

Check for play by placing the crank arm close the frame and pushing and pulling it against the frame. There should be no movement. If it feels loose, you’ll have to loosen the lock ring, tighten the inner race a little bit, and then tighten the lock ring again. When the adjustment is correct, install and tightens the left crank arm and you’re done!

 

Now, have you known how to overhaul a bike bracket? If you are interested in learning more information about bottom bracket and other bicycle parts, try to check out the website of G-MA Engineering Co., Ltd.: www.aerozinebike.com. There are kinds of high quality bike components at G-MA. Visit its product pages to find you need.

 

 

Article Source: http://bicycletutor.com/bottom-bracket/

Selecting for The Best Road Cranksets

Cranks are the crucial levers that turn pedal pressure into propulsion and upgrading this transmission keystone is always a cosmetic and performance temptation. But what do you need to know to arm yourself with the right road crankset – cranks, axle, spider and chainrings – for your bike and riding?

 

Before you even start thinking about budget or clever design, you need to check which ones will fit your bike. Even though we tried to limit the axle types on test as much as possible, the sheer number of bikes we had to rope into our testing regime to find a home for all the different variants shows it’s no simple task. Even on same diameter axles, different details mean that different brands often need their own specific bearings to work. Adaptors and converters have made things easier recently but different bearing sizes and fitting standards are still a potential minefield so it’s still essential that you double check your chosen crankset will fit your frame before you part with any cash.

 

Don’t assume that bigger axled cranks are stiffer, either. Overall stiffness is governed by the entire structure, from the chainrings, through the spider and crank then across the axle to the offside crank. While they look fancy, don’t assume that carbon cranks are automatically stiffer than alloy ones either, as both materials use a range of manufacturing methods for a wide spread of results.

 

Don’t get hung up on weight either – cranksets sit in the most central, lowest point of your bike possible. This makes their weight the least obvious of any component in dynamic or handling terms, and it’s why most pro bikes use torque meters or even extra heavy axles to bulk their weight up to the minimum legal lever. Conversely, a lightweight crank that flexes so much it feels like your feet are bending under your bike is really demoralising when you’re trying to claw your way up a climb.

 

Key crankset components

 

Crank length: Cranks – the ‘arms’ – come in different lengths to match different length legs and leverage preferences. The average is 172.5mm but 170 and 175mm cranks are relatively common on complete smaller and larger bikes respectively, and you can get as short as 160mm or as long as 180mm.

 

Axle: Most road cranksets use an axle permanently fixed to the driveside crank and a left crank that bolts/clamps into place. Some brands still use a separate axle, while Campagnolo uses two half axles that join in the centre on its Ultra Torque designs. Most come with 24mm steel axles or 30mm alloy ones.

 

Spider: The four or five-arm piece that connects chainrings to axle. Some are moulded into the arms, some made separately but permanently attached, others are removable. Standard (53/39) chainrings generally have a 130mm bolt circle diameter (BCD – the fitting pattern for the rings), compact (50/34) 110mm.

 

Chainrings: Most chainrings are made from a single-piece reinforced disc with teeth cut into the edge. In many cases brands are interchangeable or replaceable with aftermarket options. Shimano’s ‘blended’ chainring/spider design demands specific replacements to keep aesthetic and functional form.

 

Material: Solid forged alloy cranks are the cheapest option but generally the heaviest. Drilled or hollow moulded alloy cranks then follow in the fashion (but not necessarily function) hierarchy. Carbon wraps on alloy armatures look good but don’t always perform well and even ‘full’ carbon cranks have to use alloy pedal and axle interfaces.

 

Bearings: As well as different axle diameters, different bearing shoulder dimensions mean most cranks will only run in bearings from the same brand or specific aftermarket options, though converters are reducing the number of ‘impossible’ combinations. None of our test cranks obviously lost spin smoothness during our test period.

 

G-MA Engineering Co., Ltd. is the professional road crankset manufacturer in the industry. If you need more information about these high quality bicycle parts, welcome to visit the website of G-MA to see what excellent bike components we can offer you!

 

Article Source: http://www.bikeradar.com/road/gear/article/best-road-bike-cranksets-44316/

Cassette Sprocket Buying Guide

What is a bicycle cassette?

A bicycle cassette is the cluster of sprockets on your bike. The cassette is normally situated on the rear hub of your bike; slotting onto a freehub body, and held firmly in place with a threaded cassette lockring. Depending on the ‘speed’ of your bike, your cassette could have anything between a 5 and 12 sprocket; most modern bicycle drivetrains utilize either 9, 10 or 11 speed cassettes.

 

Why are cassettes important?

Cassette sprockets provide you with a range of gearing options that your chain can run on. The range of gear ratios allows you to vary your pedaling cadence (revolutions per minute), to achieve optimum efficiency.

 

Running your chain on one of the larger sprockets (more teeth) on the cassette will provide an “easier” gear; letting you turn your legs faster. Running your chain on a sprocket with a lower number of teeth, will allow you to keep pushing power through your drivetrain, without “spinning out” (pedaling at an uncomfortably high number of revolutions) on a downhill section or sprint. A good range of gears on your cassette, therefore allows you to select the optimal gear to use; to keep your pedaling as smooth and as fluid as possible.

 

How do you choose the right cassette sprocket for your bike?

The choice of a cassette sprocket can appear overwhelming at first glance. There are different combinations of sprockets, to suit different tastes and terrains; with a significant difference between the cassettes you would use for a triathlon bike, compared to a mountain bike cassette.

 

The main thing to consider is the spread of gears on the cassette sprocket. The closer the highest and lowest number of teeth is, the smaller the jump between gears; facilitating a smoother gear change. However, having closer geared sprockets will normally decrease the size of the largest sprocket on the cassette; leaving you with a gear ratio that may be less suited to climbing and tough terrain.

 

G-MA Engineering Co., Ltd. provides wide range of bicycle parts for clients. Cassette sprocket, bike seat post, MTB crankset, and so on titanium bike parts all can be found on our website. If you are interested in G-MA’s cassette sprocket or other products, welcome to browse our website or contact with G-MA directly!

 

 

Article Source: http://guides.wiggle.co.uk/cassette-buying-guide

6 Things You Might Not Know About Your Bike Chain

The chain is one of the most important bicycle parts in a bicycle, but it’s often overlooked. When it’s working properly, you don’t even realize it’s there—but when it’s not, it’s probably the only thing you think about.

 

We rounded up six things you might not know about bike chains to help you get the most out this crucial drivetrain component, and celebrate just how impressive your loop of metal links really is.

 

The earliest bikes didn’t have chains (and some still don’t). Most of us are somewhat familiar with the Victorian-era penny-farthing bikes. If you take a close look, you’ll notice that they don’t’ have chains. To move forward, cyclists turned pedals attached directly to the front wheel, and could only increase their speed by pedaling faster or getting a larger front wheel. Those bikes might look fun to ride (at least for a bit), but falling off one definitely hurt—especially in an era before helmets.

 

Some bikes still forego chains in favor of Gates Carbon belt drives (which look a bit like tank treads), or even more rarely, shaft-drive systems.

 

Chains are more complicated than you might expect. With up to 116 links in a standard bike chain, it has more moving parts than any other bike component. Of course, you’ll need to remove some links depending on whether you’re riding a nine-, 10-, or 11-speed drivetrain; your chain should be long enough that it can be shifted onto the largest front chainring and the largest cog on your cassette without jamming, but not so long that it has too much slack in the smallest chainring and cog. The quickest and easiest way to figure out the proper length for your bike is to use your old chain as a guide.

 

It can be used as a weapon. In 1954, a Scottish man was sentenced to three years in prison for assaulting a Glasgow movie theater manager with, you guessed it, a bicycle chain. Across the internet, you can find accounts of bike chains used as de facto whips or weapons. So if your bike breaks down in the middle of the zombie apocalypse, and you have a chain tool in your saddlebag, you at least have a fighting chance.

 

How you ride affects the life of your chain. Riding at a high cadence is typically not only more efficient, but also cost effective. Pedaling in a tougher gear puts more stress on the chain, significantly shortening its lifespan. Also, avoid cross-chaining—the practice of using the small chainring and small cog in the rear, or large chainring and large cog in the rear—if you don’t want to stretch out your chain.

 

Replacing your chain regularly can prolong the life of your drivetrain. Most mechanics agree that you should replace your chain about every 2,000 to 3,000 miles, depending on your riding style. Many Tour De France riders wear out two or even three chains on their primary bike over the course of the three-week race.

 

The easiest way to determine if you need a new chain is to use a chain-checker, which measures how badly your current chain has stretched. Although a properly maintained chain can technically last nearly 8,000 miles, it becomes much less efficient as it wears and elongates, says Jason Smith of Colorado-based research firm Friction Facts, with two watts of lost power for every one percent of elongation.

 

What’s more, the gritty grunge that sticks to your chain lube acts as a grinding paste, causing the pins and rollers to wear down. According to Smith, these increases the center-to-center distance of your chain, and this chain stretch will wear out your gears prematurely. So instead of paying $50 for a new chain, you’ll end up paying $300 or more for a new chain, chain ring, and cassette.

 

You. Must. Clean. Your. Chain. To keep a chain in optimum shape, you need to clean it often. Every pro and amateur wrench has their preferred method. For instance, Park Tool master mechanic Calvin Jones uses Park Tool’s Chain Gang filled with the company’s degreaser every time he cleans, while Josh Simonds (the creator of NixFrixshun chain lube) suggests simply wiping down the chain with a clean cotton rag after every ride; when the chain eventually becomes overwhelmed with contamination, Simonds says, use a nylon brush to scrub it with hot water and Dawn liquid soap. If it’s really filthy, take your bike into your local shop for an ultrasonic cleaning, or take off the chain and shake it around in a Gatorade bottle filled with degreaser.

 

After the chain is clean, be sure to dry and lube it, wiping away any excess.

 

BEV.INT’L Corp is the manufacturer of specializing in producing durable and high quality bicycle part and accessories. All of our bicycle parts are manufactured using the industry’s most advanced techniques and under a strict quality-control program. We are proud to specialize in carbon composite manufacture and have significant in-house R&D experience. Learn more information about bicycle part series, please take some time to review our current bicycle parts products. Give us an opportunity to make BEV become your new favorite bike parts and accessories manufacturer!

 

Article Source: http://www.bicycling.com/repair-maintenance/maintenance/6-things-you-might-not-know-about-bike-chains

The Advantages of Using an Adjustable Seatpost with Your Cycle

One of the most highly demanded and a favored product by cyclists around the world is the adjustable bicycle seatpost. In the past, cyclists relied on fixed seatposts, where the height of the seat could only be increased or decreased by adjusting the seatpost clamp through the manual operation of wrenches. But, the use of it has brought a sort of revolution in the world of cycling. Only a simple push of a remote button switch mounted around the handle that is connected by a wire enable riders to increase or decrease the height of the seat, even while riding. Also known as a dropper seatpost, the innovative product is steadily winning the hearts of cycling enthusiasts.

 

Easy to Fit in Your Cycle

 

Riders do not need to buy a new special model of cycle so as to put a new adjustable seatpost. Manufacturers commonly produce adjustable seatposts in the BMX industry standard outer diameter of 27.2mm, making it usable across several varieties of bicycles. Adjustable seatpost with outer diameters of 30.4mm, 30.9mm and 31.6mm are also widely available in the markets.

 

Unparalleled Comfort

 

Different seating positions are required for easy maneuvering of the cycles across different terrains. All cyclists must have experienced that the position which would seem to be absolutely comfortable on a straight road could be really be hard around difficult uphill or downhill terrain. But being able to control the size of the seat with an adjustable seatpost, offers riders the flexibility to comfortably navigate across different terrains.

 

Higher Efficiency and Stability While Riding

 

When the adjustable seatpost is up, pedaling becomes more efficient as cyclists can use the whole range of motion of their leg muscles. When the trail points downhill, dropping the seat allow cyclists to lower their center of gravity, in turn providing more riding stability. Thus, the rider has the freedom to choose the best seating position, based on their need to either ride faster or roll comfortably. All ‘Tour de France’ riders use adjustable seatpost with their cycles because of this very reason.

 

Different Variations Available in the Market

 

Several manufacturers currently produce different variants of adjustable bicycle seatposts based on different technologies. The most advanced as well as costly versions are operated by hydraulics. Similarly, there are also seatposts that are operated by air pressure. But the most commonly available ones are spring based variations. Hydraulics and air pressure operated seatposts require higher maintenance and are vulnerable to leaks, while spring operated versions often last longer and are easier plus cheaper to maintain.

 

Buy the Adjustable Bicycle Seatpost That Gives You the Best Value

 

Whether you are an urban rider or an adventurous mountain bike rider, seek the dropper seatpost that provides you the best value. Choose a product that is comfortable to use but isn’t too expensive to buy and maintain either. Spring operated versions could be one of the better choices. However, in case of heavy duty mountain bike riding getting a hydraulic version can be worth it as well.

 

G-MA Engineering Co., Ltd. is the leading and professional titanium bike parts manufacturer in the industry. If you are interested in learning more information about bicycle seatpost and other bike parts series, welcome to visit the website of G-MA to obtain further details. Any questions you have are also welcome to contact with us.

 

 

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/9238895

 

How to Choose the Right Bicycle Saddles for Riders

Finding the right bicycle saddle is crucial since this greatly affects the rider’s comfort and performance in their ride. Picking the right saddle is actually challenging for all riders regardless of their weight and size. For heavy riders however, the additional weight and pressure put on the seat may cause discomfort and strain. Here are a few things heavy riders may want to consider in choosing a saddle for cycling comfort.

 

Consider the width of the saddle. The idea of the saddle is to support the two “sit bones” to keep the rider balanced on the bike. Heavy riders may want to consider choosing a slightly wider saddle for better support and comfort on their backside but not too wide as this may cause chaffing or rubbing.

 

Consider the bicycle saddle pad. It is a misconception that the best saddle pads are those that are soft and thick. While these types of pads can be comfortable in the beginning, these can cause excessive heat as these absorb much pressure from the rider’s weight and movement and thus create discomfort during the ride. Experts suggest that heavy riders get a saddle seat with firmer foam since this doesn’t quickly compact compared to a foam or gel cushion. Also, experienced heavy riders agree that it is wise to choose bicycle saddles with the least cushioning but still is comfortable for the rider to sit on. It may take some time to get used to riding a firm saddle but over time, the ride would be more pleasant.

 

Consider durability. Because foam saddles easily wear out for heavy riders, these have to be replaced more often than a lighter cyclist would. Experts suggest that leather saddles can be a great option for heavy riders since these are more durable. Also, the longer the rider stays on the saddle; the seat becomes molded to the rider’s anatomy.

 

Shop wisely. It is advisable that a rider give the bike a test ride before buying it. During the test ride, the rider may vary positions on the saddle, ride on different speeds, hit some bumps and try some uphill terrain. This way, the rider can test the comfort of the saddle seat and the sturdiness of the saddle seat. Also, it is suggested that the rider also inspect the rails of the saddle. Although chromoly is the most affordable and suitable for most riders, titanium rails are more durable and long-lasting.

 

Considering all the factors, the key to finding the right bicycle saddles is optimum support and comfort for the rider.

 

BEV was established in1992 and is one of the bicycle industry’s leading component manufacturers. We are proud to offer the finest quality bicycle saddles, frames, forks, handle bars, bar ends and much more to customers and OEM producers around the world. If you are interested in and need further details about bicycle parts, welcome to visit our website and feel free to contact BEV now!

 

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/expert/Joan_Bishop_Denizot/2223664

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/9364794

 

Superior Quality Bicycle Part: BEV

 BEV Bicycle Part Company was founded in 1992 as a professional bicycle part manufacturer. We offer various bicycle parts including bicycle frames, front forks, handle bars, bar ends, stems, seat posts, clamps, saddles, bags, cranks, bottle cages, tools, lights, shoes, wheel sets, and more others. Besides with our strict management and serious working attitude all these will convince you to have a strong confidence with our products. With decades of experiences in the bike industry, the company has built an enviable reputation for its quality performance, unrivaled techniques and impressive designs. Everything we do is to ensure that all the demands of our customers are met at all times. Your inquiries or order proposals will be highly appreciated. We will quote our very best price by return fax or e-mail immediately. Welcome to our website to get more information.

 

Bicycle Parts

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Address: No. 314, Sec. 1, Chung Shan Rd., Tachia Town, Taichung County, Taiwan
Tel:886-4-26886780
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E-mail:evelyn_shy@seed.net.tw