How to Use a Finishing Nailer in Woodworking

A Quality Finish Nailer Can Speed Up the Assembly Process

Apach Finishing Nailer

Finishing nailers are designed to nail moldings and smaller trim boards onto assemblies with ease. The thin finish nails can be driven through the trim board into hardwoods, softwoods, plywood or other manufactured wood products such as MDF with a very small footprint, leaving behind a very small nail hole that can be filled using wood filler before or after applying the finish. The thin nail is also far less likely to split the delicate trim board than a larger framing or other types of nail or wood screw and typically holds much better than an adhesive.


The finish nailer is also much faster than nailing finish nails using a hammer, allowing the trim carpenter or woodworker to be far more productive. The finish nailer has the added advantage of being able to be used one-handed, freeing up the other hand for holding the trim or molding in place.


Features of a Finish Nailer

Most finish nailers use nails ranging from 15-18 gauges, and the style of nailer is either straight or angled (meaning that the magazine that holds the nails beneath the nailer is either perpendicular to the nailing direction or at an angle of about 20 degrees). Nails for these nailers come in strips of 50-100, usually in boxes of about 2000 in total, and usually, range from 1-1/4 to 2-1/2 inches in length. Smaller finish nailers, commonly called brad nailers, will shoot very thin brads ranging from 5/8-inch up to 1-1/2 inches in length.


Safety Features

Finish nailers have a safety nose that must be depressed before the trigger of the nailer will engage and be able to be pulled.


Most finish nailers include a rubber, anti-marring tip that can be slipped over the tip of the nose to prevent the nailer from damaging the wood or molding being nailed.


To use the finish nailer, position the tip of the nailer on the trim board at the location where you want the nail to be driven. Then, adjust the position of the nailer to drive the nail in the proper direction.


In most cases, the nailer’s cylinder and the tip should line up perpendicular to the face of the board, allowing the nail to be driven squarely into the board. In other cases, though, you may need to angle the nail to catch sufficient wood behind the trim or molding, so adjust your angle of the nailer accordingly.


Once the nailer is aligned properly, push the nailer gently toward the wood, depressing the safety nose of the nailer, and pull the trigger. A finish nail should be driven directly into the trim at the desired angle.


As with all power tools, be sure to wear appropriate safety equipment, including safety glasses, hearing protection where necessary and appropriate clothing.


Pneumatic or Cordless?

Finish nailers come in two styles, pneumatic and cordless. Pneumatic finish nailers are powered by compressed air via a hose from an air compressor. Conversely, cordless finish nailers utilize a combination of a rechargeable battery and a compressed air canister to drive the nail. Obviously, the cordless unit has the advantage of not being tethered via a hose, but because of the onboard battery, the cordless units tend to be a bit heavier.


Costs are also a concern for both types of nailers.


With a pneumatic nailer, you obviously need a decent air compressor and hoses to run the distance between the compressor and the area being nailed, so the initial costs are much higher than a cordless unit. On the other hand, with the cordless, you don’t have such a large up-front expense, but you do have some consumables, specifically the need to purchase more air canisters when the current canisters run out. If the required canister isn’t available at your local lumberyard or home center, you may need to order more online or else your cordless finish nailer will be unusable.


Dealing with Problems

When working with a finish nailer, you want the head of the finish nail to be sunk just below the surface of the trim board or molding so that it can easily be filled with nail filler. If the nails aren’t being fully sunk, you can drive them in using a hammer and a nail set, but that is extra work that you shouldn’t have to do.


The problem typically is caused by either insufficient pressure from the air compressor, or the depth adjustment dial on the finish nailer needs to be rotated until the nails are driven to the appropriate depth. Check the operating manual for your particular finish nailer model for instructions on how to modify the depth adjustment.


One other problem that occasionally arises is a jam in the head of the finish nailer. Nearly all finish nailers have an easy-to-open latch on the front of the nailer that can be opened and the jammed nail(s) removed. For safety, disconnect the nailer from the air compressor or take out the battery and/or air cartridge before opening the latch to remove a jam.


Apach Industrial Co., Ltd. is the well-known manufacturer and supplier of finishing nailer. Their air finish nailers are designed to accomplish carpentry finish work quickly and efficiently. Especially Apach new angled finish nailer can be used for bedding, cabinets, siding, upholstery and other applications. If you have any interest in finishing nailer and air finish nailers etc. products, try to send inquiry to Apach. They will offer you the best price and superior high quality.



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How to Use a Deburring Tool

Deburring tools are incredibly useful for rounding out rough edges on almost anything. You can use a deburring tool to even out the edges of a PVC pipe or to get rid of rough spots on the edge of a piece of wood. Using a deburring tool is pretty easy, but it helps to know about the process before you get started. You might also find it helpful to know what to consider when choosing your tool and what you should do to keep yourself safe.


Method 1 – Using the Deburring Tool


  1. Secure your attachment. After you have selected the appropriate attachment for the job, attach the piece to your deburring tool. You may need to consult your user’s manual to determine how to attach the piece.
  • Make sure that the attachment is locked securely in place before you switch it on.


  1. Make sure that the object you are deburring is locked in place. While some larger objects might stay put on their own, it will be difficult (and unsafe) to deburr a smaller item that is not secured in place. For example, a piece of furniture may not need to be secured, but a piece of wood or a pipe will need to be secured in place.
  • Try using a vice to secure smaller items and prevent them from moving around as you deburr them.


  1. Turn on the deburring tool. Next, pick up your deburring tool and hold it firmly by the handle. Then, switch on your deburring tool when you are ready to use it.
  • You may want to start out by using the lowest setting and then increase the speed if necessary.


  1. Place the deburring tool against the edge. Hold the tool so that it is right up against the edge you wish to deburr. For example, if you are deburring the edge of a piece of wood, then places the tool right up against the edge.
  • You do not need to press hard to deburr the item, just ensure that the tool makes contact with the edge of the object you are deburring.


  1. Go over the area two or three times. To ensure that the edge is completely deburred, it may be necessary to go over it with the deburring tool two or three times. Start at one end and move all the way to the end, or select a starting point if you are deburring a circular item.
  • If you are deburring a pipe or other circular area, then you may just have to let the deburring tool rotate two or three times.
  • If you are deburring an edge, then you will need to drag the tool back and forth across the area two or three times.


  1. Check the edges to ensure all burrs have been removed. After you have finished deburring the item, remove the tool and turn it off. Then, check the edges of the area you just deburred to ensure that you got all of the larger burrs. If there are still some burrs left, then you can always go over it again.
  • You can also sand the edges of the area you just deburred to ensure that it is nice and smooth. Use a fine grit sandpaper to sand away any minor imperfections.


Method 2 – Choosing the Right Tool

  1. Select the right size. Deburring tools are available in handheld sizes as well as larger power tool sizes. The size you need will depend on what you need to deburr. Choose the right tool for your job to get the best results.
  • Hand deburring tools are better for small, precise deburring jobs.
  • Power deburring tools work better for larger jobs.


  1. Choose the right type of attachment. There are many different types of deburring tool attachments to choose from. If your deburring tool came with a selection of attachments, then you may want to consult your user’s guide to determine which attachment is the most appropriate for your job.
  • Some attachments are better for certain materials, such as metal or plastic, while other attachments are better for certain shapes, such as circular items.


  1. Match the deburring attachment with the inner or outer diameter. If you are going to be deburring a pipe, then you may want to use a deburring attachment that will go around the pipe edge or fit inside of the pipe. If you have this type of attachment, then match it up with the pipe to see if the diameter is correct.
  • If you do not have these types of attachment, then you can still deburr the pipe. You will just need to use a different attachment work around the edges of the pipe.


Method 3 – Staying Safe

  1. Protect your eyes with safety goggles. When deburring a surface, pieces of wood, metal shavings or plastic will come off of the surface and they may fly towards your face. To protect your eyes from these shavings, make sure that you wear some safety goggles while you are using the deburring tool.
  • Try to get a pair of safety goggles that will protect your eyes on all sides, not just from the front.


  1. Wear gloves to protect your hands. Like most power tools, using a deburring tool can be dangerous. To protect your hands and fingers from injury, make sure that you wear some leather or canvas work gloves. You can find these in any hardware store.


  1. Consider wearing a face mask. If you will be deburring an item with a fine attachment and you expect to kick up a lot of dust, then you might also want to wear a face mask to protect yourself from the dust. Otherwise, you may end up breathing in some of the dust and this can be harmful to your health.


Video of Hand Deburring Tools

If you have any interest in learning more information about deburring tools, try to watch the video below:

A Reliable Deburring Tools Manufacturer

If you ask “Where can find high quality deburring tools?” I will tell you that Maxclaw Tools Co., Ltd. is the best supplier for you.


Maxclaw is the professional manufacturer of specializing in kinds of tube tools. It also provides a variety of hand deburring tools for you to select. If you are looking for the ideal deburring tools, do not miss Maxclaw, you will find the most suitable tools at its website.



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When Is Ultrasonic Polishing Equipment Justified?

Ultrasonic polishing is ideal and justifiable when work on small to very small details is required.


Manual polishing is a very tedious process, and in particular very small intricate detail work requires additional effort and patience. Ultrasonic lapping machines, available now for quite some time, have been improved in recent years to effectively replace certain time-consuming and costly small detail hand finishing work.


Ultrasonic Unit Features

By comparison to conventional die profilers, as well as air-powered lapping machines that may have a stroke length of up to ¼ inch, the reciprocating action of an ultrasonic unit ranges only from .00004 to .00012 inches. However, the extremely fast reciprocating tool motion of 21,000 and up to 25,000 strokes per second provides the extra productivity and gives the polisher complete fingertip control when finishing even the most intricate ridges, slots and details.


Ultrasonic systems usually consist of an electronic power module (110 or 220 volt) with a slender electric cord that powers the lightweight and easy to manipulate small, ultrasonic handpiece. Commonly, an automatic power feed system in the module adjusts the frequency required to accommodate the various individual abrasive tools that are installed for the finishing process. The systems are equipped with numerous clamps that will accommodate tools ranging from small diamond files to conventional type polishing stones and/or ceramic stones and laps.


As with all other power tools, great care and attention should be given when working with ultrasonic machines. Because of the ultra-fast motion, tools that are overly aggressive (especially coarse diamond files, etc.) should never be used. Surfaces that must be flawless can easily be scratched and made wavy or damaged.


On the other hand, dense/hard, fine grit ceramic or vitrified abrasive polishing stones or laps made of brass and cast iron when used with premium diamond compound, permit the beginner to acquire a better understanding of the fast cutting powers these ultrasonic systems offer. Note: Only the most experienced operator should use diamond files or diamond stones for ultrasonic polishing.


Ultrasonic Applications

We need to stay objective and remind ourselves that ultrasonic polishing is not for everyone. Frequently, ultrasonic systems are perceived to take care of all polishing problems. This is not so. Ultrasonic polishing is not a cure-all for every mold and die shop that does in-house polishing. There are many polishing professionals and/or mold shops—doing mostly mid-size to large work—that may not require an ultrasonic system. In many instances, the units are simply not practical for mid-size to large type work and ultrasonic systems are not recommended to be used on larger details and surfaces exceeding a 3/8-inch square.


Nevertheless, ultrasonic finishing has its place in a polishing environment and it is not overstated to say that in some instances the cost of one ultrasonic system may be recouped by polishing three to four multiple cavity/core molds. For instance, an experienced individual, when working with an ultrasonic polishing machine on very small details, may reduce finishing time by as much as 40 percent and up to 65 percent.


In the past, there have been several good, but very expensive ultrasonic systems on the market. The name of one system may differ from the other, yet they all practically evolved from one source. However, several new models, which have been recently developed and have proved to be highly effective, as well as very affordable for even the smallest mold shop or polishing house, are now available in the marketplace.


Ultrasonic Advantages

Ultrasonic units with super-fast, very short strokes, provide virtual unrestricted fingertip control. By comparison, regular reciprocating tools—such as air-driven or electric flexible shaft-operated die profilers—are more restrictive in movement and less flexible to handle.


Nevertheless, die profilers and/or various other filing machines are great for medium to large mold details and when used at a comfortable speed range and proper stroke lengths they will provide excellent finishing capabilities.


Ultrasonic polishing is ideal and justifiable when work on small to very small details is required. It is safe to say that the smaller, more intricate or precise the finishing work needs to be, and/or the harder the materials are which require finishing, the more likely it is that an ultrasonic unit will improve polishing time. Subsequently, complicated heat-treated molds and dies, carbide dies or inserts and detailed punches with fine edges and very narrow slots machined by EDM are perfect for using ultrasonic polishing systems.


It should be mentioned here that there are other advantages that make certain ultrasonic systems a practical purchase. Meaning, various models offer dual operating capabilities where the electronic power module not only has the ability to drive the ultrasonic handpiece, but also regulate the speed and rotational direction for a variety of rotary and/or reciprocating hand tools. Having these secondary functions presents additional cost savings over single function ultrasonic units as they permit a full range of filing/reciprocating capabilities as well as rotational grinding/polishing using mounted points, burs, polishing brushes and felt bobs. Furthermore, since the rotary or reciprocating hand tools are powered with internal DC motors, the thin electrical cord provides more freedom of movement when compared to flexible shaft powered tools.



When selecting a supplier for this type of equipment it is most prudent to purchase from a respectable company that has been around for many years, offers good customer service and has some experience in ultrasonic polishing, which can be passed on to the customer, even via the telephone.


I think Best Diamond Industrial Co., Ltd. will be the most excellent choice. Besdia supplies high quality ultrasonic lapping machine and much more tools for you. Learn more information about Besida, welcome to check out the website here:



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Beginners Guide To The Impact Wrench

If you’ve ever experienced trying to loosen a large, fretted or corroded fixing, then you’ll appreciate what I’m about to say. Often working in tight spaces or at awkward angles, nuts and bolts can be extremely difficult and time consuming to fit or remove. Skinned knuckles, broken tools and jobs taking hours longer than you’d planned, all contribute to the frustration that nuts and bolts cause on a daily basis for people across the world. Even experienced professionals, such as fitters and mechanics, will experience these problems on a regular basis.


The solution? Well, there are a number of factors to consider, but the most important is the force you apply to the fixing. Without adequate force, the fixing will either be under tightened (under torqued) or simply won’t come undone. Secondly, and this is particularly important for busy professionals, the time taken to fit or remove a fixing can be painstakingly long if it is in a hard to reach position. Similarly, the time taken up by repetitive jobs, like removing and refitting vehicle wheels, can really add up over the course of a day and eat into your profit margin or your family’s patience.


Using an impact wrench solves both these problems. It is capable of delivering a much larger force than you can apply by hand, without additional leverage, and it greatly speeds up the tightening and loosening of fixings, especially those that are hard to reach. So, if you can relate to what I said earlier, you’ll want to read on.


What Is An Impact Wrench And How Does It Work?

An impact wrench is used to aid the tightening and loosening of nuts and bolts by reducing the effort required by the user and increasing the speed at which fixings can be tightened or loosened. There are a variety of different types on the market but they all work in fundamentally the same way. Essentially, they apply a rotational force (or torque) in short bursts (or impacts). They are driven by a motor which is powered by air, mains electricity, or battery (usually referred to as a “cordless impact wrench”).


Because the force is applied in short bursts, the user is able to apply a much larger torque to the fixing than they would use a regular wrench; sometimes with only one hand. This greatly reduces the effort required by the user, which results in less fatigue and fewer injuries or strains. The time required to complete a task is also reduced meaning that the user can finish the job faster and, in the case of a business, generate greater revenue and profit.


Which Type Is Right For Me?

Of the 3 different types of impact wrench, air, electric and cordless, each has its advantages over the others. Originally, only the air impact wrench was available and used mainly by professional and race mechanics to quickly remove and refit wheel nuts (lug nuts). Depending on the model, air tools are powerful, fast and robust making them ideal for use in a professional environment. However, they do require a large volume, high pressure air supply to operate and regular maintenance, which means they aren’t really suitable for infrequent or home use. And, as they’re attached to the compressed air supply by an airline, it can be difficult to move them around a workspace.


The corded electric impact wrench is also powerful and fast (again, depending on the model) but is less robust than the equivalent air tool. It too is attached by a cord making it difficult to move around a workspace and, of course, it cannot be used in the absence of a mains electricity supply. However, it can be less expensive than an air or cordless impact wrench, making it an attractive choice for home use.


Perhaps the most sought after, particularly in recent years as the technology has improved, and are cordless (battery powered) impact wrenches. The more expensive, higher voltage units deliver performance approaching that of an equivalent air tool but without the additional infrastructure. They are also completely portable and the absence of a cord means they can be moved easily around a workspace and used in hard to access areas. Unfortunately, they are often the most expensive and can be relatively heavy due to the weight of the battery packs.


At present, air impact wrenches remain the most popular with professional mechanics. But, as technology continues to improve, the cordless impact wrench will become increasingly popular, less expensive, and ultimately dominate the market.


Kspark International Ltd. is the company of specializing in a variety of impact wrenches including heavy duty impact wrench series, super heavy duty impact wrench series and angle heavy duty impact wrenches. If you have any interest in impact wrench, try to check out Kspark’s website to see the full specification of each product and find the ideal one you need. More details, click here:



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Choosing a Spray Gun – A Complete Guide

The intent of this article is to cover all the important things to consider and provide information to help you choose the right spray gun for you.


If you are just getting started in spray application you may be over whelmed by all the variables that are to be considered. From choosing the right coating, to safety considerations when spraying, to choosing the actual spray equipment. If you have been able to wade through the choices you may be at the point that you have decided you will be using a spray gun and want to determine which spray gun will best meet your needs.


Variable 1 – Fluid Viscosity


Viscosity is usually referenced as low, medium or high but if you do not have the viscosity of your coating provided you can also use a measuring device like a Zahn cup which will give you a reading in seconds. You can then use a conversion chart to determine the viscosity of a given coating. Most spray gun manufacturers including Binks and Devilbiss will often list the proper spray gun set up based on the coating viscosity you will spray using a certain cup like for the Trophy Gun the viscosity is listed in seconds in a Zahn 2 Cup. You can also often get a spray gun recommendation on the technical data sheet for your coating. However if you will be spraying a variety of coatings then having a general reference point of the coating type and viscosity of the coating will give you the ability to reference what spray gun setup might be ideal.  In general certain types of spray guns are better suited for heavy viscosity coatings than others.


For high viscosity coatings like zincs, enamels, ceramics, or glues you will typically want to use a conventional spray gun. Or if you need to spray even heavier bodied coatings or need higher production then you will often want to consider an Airless or Air Assist Airless.


For other coatings it will depend on your finish requirements. HVLP will help reduce the coating you use by having higher transfer efficiency. LVMP will allow for similar transfer efficiency to HVLP but may not meet environmental regulations in certain industries, conventional will provide the finest atomization but can use twice as much paint in a given time that HVLP will.


In addition to having implications for the type of gun to choose, viscosity will also be important in determining how fluid is delivered in a spray gun. The three ways to feed paint to a spray gun include pressure, suction, or gravity. Each feed method has its benefits and limitations. In general Gravity feed spray guns will keep waste to a minimum and provide ease of use. However to use a gravity feed spray gun the material must be thin enough to flow easily. Suction feed spray guns will have similar fluid flow requirements to gravity fed spray guns. Suction fed spray guns do offer potential agitators which can be helpful for coatings that require agitation. Suction feed spray guns will require slightly more cleaning. If your coating is highly viscous you will most often need a pressure fed spray gun. Pressure feed spray guns can supply highly viscous coatings easily making them the ideal choice for high viscosity coatings.


Variable 2 – Production Requirements

In addition to a variety of feed methods and air cap styles, high quality spray guns have a variety of set ups available. By offering larger air caps and fluid nozzles you will be able to choose a spray gun that will be able to provide the production level you need or if a spray gun is not fast enough you may want to consider an airless.  You can get an idea of what production you can expect out of various fluid nozzles here. The Air Cap you choose will determine a few important things including the size of the spray pattern and the caps ability to break up heavy viscosity coatings the higher the CFM of the air cap typically the heavier bodied coating it will atomize. BY knowing your production requirement you can be better able to choose the right fluid nozzle and air cap


In addition to choosing the air cap and fluid nozzle the Production requirement will be pertinent in choosing how you feed your spray gun. Pressure pots offer higher volumes of coating which can be ideal if you will be spraying more than a gallon of paint at a time. They also provide greater control over your fluid and air pressures which can help in meeting a production goal. Or if you need the ability to continuously paint you can feed your spray gun from a diaphragm pump or fluid transfer pump. If you will be painting in small quantities and not have coatings with high viscosity then gravity or siphon feed spray gun could be ideal.


Variable 3 – Compressed Air Availability

Different spray equipment will need different amounts of air. A typical spray gun can require 20 CFM of air while an airless can often require significantly more if it is air fed using up to 120 CFM. You can learn more about compressor requirements for spray equipment here.


Variable 4 – Finish Quality Requirements

A final variable to consider is the finish requirements you will need. Spray guns are typically the best appearing finishes. If the coatings are not highly viscous most of the times you can achieve an automotive quality break up of a coating with HVLP, Conventional, or LVMP.


However with heavier bodied coatings you will typically need a conventional gun to get good break up. An air assist airless will provide a finish that is close to a spray gun but not quite the fine finish, they are often used for higher production that requires a quality finish. If you primary need high production or spraying high solids coatings you will typically need an airless.


Variable 5 – Length and Diversity of Use

Spray guns vary greatly in their prices as well as their quality. Higher quality spray guns offer greater variety of air caps, fluid nozzles, and are able to be completely rebuilt. Lower cost spray guns will often not be rebuild able and have limitations on the variety of set ups that are available. You can learn more about spray gun prices and quality differences here.



Choosing the right spray gun for your coating can be a lot to consider. By knowing more about your finish quality, production, compressed air, and viscosity of your paint you will be able to better determine the right spray equipment for you.


By the way, if you want to find quality spray guns, I can recommend that you can try to visit the website of the professional spray gun manufacturer – KSPARK International Ltd... The company is specializing in kinds of air spray guns, air blow gun, mini compressor, and much more… For more details about spray gun series, welcome to check out Kspark’s website: to see what products they can offer you.



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How to Use a PEX Crimping Tool

In this article, I’m going to show you the usage of a PEX crimping tool and where to find it.


It is best to rent a PEX crimping tool when installing PEX pipe. This tool is a necessity to perform your task, but it is only used for this reason. This is why it is better to rent than spend your money on a new one that will only more than likely be used this one and only time.


A PEX crimping tool is a tool that is used when you are installing PEX pipe. It is used to create a water tight seal when finishing off your piping project by securing the crimp ring into place on your pipe.
PEX Crimping Tool

How It Works

Installing PEX pipe is not a complicated procedure, but it does take special works and tools to get it done. Obviously the crimp tool is one of those tools that are necessary.


When you have cut your pipe to the size you need it, you will want to slip on crimp rings over the ends of the just cut pipe. Then you will take a fitting, and push it into the tubing. Slide the crimp ring to the edge. Now you are ready to use your PEX crimping tool.


Take out your rented tool and open it. This is done by pulling the handles apart to create an opening. Put the opening of the tool over the crimp ring on one end of the PEX pipe. Make sure it is on well, and then shut the tool by pushing the handles back together. This creates an extreme amount of pressure and forces the crimp ring into place. This then creates a water tight seal, which is obviously something any home owner is seeking when dealing with piping projects.



Only a PEX Crimping Tool

Some home owners have tried to seek out another possible way that the above procedure could be done. One that doesn’t need a PEX crimping tool. Unfortunately in order to replace your old piping with PEX pipe, or even if you are doing new construction, and are starting off with PEX pipe. The only proper, secure, and safe way to get it done is if you have, or have access to a PEX crimp tool.


This is the only tool that creates enough force and pressure at just the right areas to be able to securely smash the crimp ring into where it is supposed to be. Using another tool, or finishing this procedure in any other way can result in a faulty crimp ring, or fitting, causing the pipe to leak, which in turn causes damage to the home.


All home owners know that a leaky pipe is not what they want to wake up to Saturday morning. So, save yourself the trouble and rent a PEX crimping tool. This will ensure that the job is done right the first time, and there will be no long term problems with leaky pipes, and no danger of finishing the project missing some essentials.


To find the best selection of PEX crimping tools, please check out the website of MAXCLAW. The company is specializing in a variety of tube cutting tools and tube bending tools. If you need more information about these tube tools, welcome to visit MAXCLAW’s product pages and feel free to send inquiries to them.



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Before Buying an Air Impact Wrench What You Should Know

Have there ever been times and instances where you or your family member had to build, construct, or even repair something around your home or office, or even do some work on your car, but you just did not have the right and appropriate tools to get the job done? Do you still use a normal, manual winding wrench to loosen or tighten those loose nuts and bolts?


With the power and science of modern technology nowadays, you, your family members, or even your fellow work-mates need not trouble yourselves with the manual and tedious labor of winding wrenches, for there is the air impact wrench! The air impact wrench is also known as an air wrench, air gun, torque gun, or windy gun.


This automated power tool brings high torque productivity while applying the least amount of effort by the user. This is done by accumulating energy in a rotating collection, then abruptly and rapidly distributing to the output shaft.


There are some points to consider however, when using, and more importantly, buying an air impact wrench. Probably the most touched upon issue and concern when purchasing an air wrench is whether or not the impact wrench you are getting, is the not only suitable to your specific needs, but also for the optimal output of the tool in general.


The best and most effective way to get the best impact wrench possible is by checking the brands and models of these wrenches.


Some other concerns and matters to consider before buying air impact wrenches are:


  • Checking how much torque the air wrench contains
  • The manufacturing and design of the wrench
  • Accumulated and total weight of the wrench itself
  • Air compressor size
  • Size drive of the air wrench
  • Budget to purchase the actual wrench


These points, though seemingly common and surely considered before purchasing the actual air wrench by the prospective consumers, are some of the most essential issues which are overlooked by the buyers themselves. Taking these points into consideration when looking to buy an air wrench will help you to make the right choice.


Buying the best wrench for your needs will undoubtedly save you not only time, or money, but ultimately you will have the satisfaction of having purchased the best tool out there for you. Be sure to keep these tips in mind, and you will definitely and certainly become the proud owner of an air impact wrench that will get the job done.


Reliable air impact wrench manufacturer, APACH Industrial Co., Ltd., providing kinds of industrial nailer and wrench for clients. If you have any interest, welcome to visit their website to obtain further details about high quality tools.




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How to Use a Double Flaring Tool

One of the specialty tools that everybody who does his own auto repair should own is a double flaring tool. With this tool it’s possible to do a professional looking job with brake line or transmission cooling line replacement. Without this tool this is a very difficult job because it’s almost impossible to find the correct length steel line. A double flare is the best sealing and strongest way to flare a tubing end.

Double Flaring Tool FT-10A

Double Flaring Tool FT-10A


  1. Use a tubing cutter and cut the tubing to the desired length. Remove any burrs on the cut end of the tube. Slide the tubing nut on the tube, hex end first.


  1. Loosen the wing nuts and insert the tube in the appropriate opening of the tubing clamp. Place the correct sized adapter upside down beside the protruding end of the tube. Allow the end of the tubing to protrude from the tube to match the thickness of the large part of the adapter. Tighten the wing nuts tightly. Keep the halves of the tool parallel to each other as you tighten.


  1. Turn the adapter over, coat with a small amount of brake fluid and insert into the tube.


  1. Place the flaring tool on the tubing clamp, making sure the screw point is centered on the adapter and the flaring tool is locked on the tubing clamp. Turn the screw clockwise until the adapter bottoms out of the tubing clamp. Final tightening is easier if you clamp the tool in a vise if you have one.


  1. Loosen the screw and remove the adapter. The tubing end should have a bubble look at this point.


  1. Position the flaring tool with the point entering the tubing end and centered. Turn the screw clockwise and tighten until the cone is bottomed out completely.


  1. Remove the flaring tool and inspect the tubing end. The flare should be even all around with no cracks or gaps. Remove the tubing from the clamp.




Always carefully check the new flare for cracks. Do not use if any cracks are found.


MAXCLAW Tools Co., Ltd. is the double flaring tool manufacturing expert in Taiwan. They provide a variety of hand tools including tubing cutter, tubing bender, hook spanner wrench, deburring tool, PEX crimping tool and more. If you want to get more information about flaring tools or others, welcome to visit MAXCLAW’s website and feel free to send inquiries or contact them directly!



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How to Use A Pruning Saw

Once you’ve decided you need to make a pruning cut and know that the wood is too thick for the otherwise-preferable use of hand pruners or loppers, it’s time to get out your pruning saw. Pruning saws are your choice for wood about 1.5 inches thick or more and your last resort before the very large stuff that you might only be able to do with a chainsaw. As such, they are used to cut a wide range on the large end of wood thicknesses.


Since saws are used on thick, often long wood, their use often comes with more cautions and considerations than pruners and loppers, which are basically strong and specialized scissors. Saws can require significantly more strength and control.


This guide covers tips and cautions for the use of saws in pruning you can reach from ground level.


Pruning with A Saw, General Technique

Wear sturdy work gloves and possibly safety goggles if you’re in a dense shrub. Choose the exact spot to cut and a healthy cutting angle. As you prune, it may help to consider these steps:


  1. Notice nearby wood you want to preserve. Often you will be working in tight-angled crotches or near other branches you do not want to cut. More than any other pruning tool, saws easily slip and can quickly injure wood unintentionally, so note this risk in your mind.


  1. Choose a comfortable direction of cut. When possible, choose to cut from a top side to a lower side, so gravity is pulling the saw into the wood. By changing where you stand relative to the plant and the angle of your saw, you can usually make the same cut in many different ways to suit your access and comfort.


  1. Reduce limb weight with preliminary cuts. This step is crucial and not anticipated by many gardeners. Thick or long branches have significant weight that will cause a premature break and tear before you can complete a saw cut. This is because your saw cut will reduce the wood holding the limb to a weak, narrow strip. To prevent a tearing wound to the plant, you must tactically remove this weight before even starting your last cut at your chosen spot.


  1. Begin your final cut with a starting groove. Without this groove, the saw will want to slip away from your site. Slipping is especially a risk on non-horizontal branches.


  1. Begin to cut. Working in the groove to guide your strokes, you can cut at a brisk speed now, straight back and forth, keeping in enough control to not slip and wound nearby wood or yourself. Cutting happens on the pull stroke, so bite into the wood on pulling and push back lightly.


  1. Finish the cut. Saw until the branch comes cleanly away from the plant. Occasionally some rough wood will be left at the bottom of your cut, like a splinter beard. To achieve that perfect, baby-smooth cut, you can shave this off with a light stroke of your blade pressed flat against the pruning wound.


Other Tips and Cautions For Pruning Saw Use

  1. Work comfortable. Set your stance a little wide and plant firmly. Take long pull strokes when possible and pull with a lean of your body for major cuts or at least your whole arm, not just at the wrist and elbow. Conserving strength makes mistakes less likely and makes you a happier gardener.


  1. Keep the blade straight. If the blade flexes, you are applying to much pressure when you push it, or you are not pulling straight. Slow down. Apply pressure only on pulls. Get back to a straight, controlled cut and slowly increase your speed.


  1. Working near the ground? When working near the ground with any tool, try to keep the blade from getting into the soil. Sand and pebbles in the soil quickly dull any blade. You’ll have to do this a lot during renovation pruning, which involves making a lot of low cuts into the thick, old wood of prolific shrubs like lilac and beauty bush, for examples.


  1. Wear your saw in a holster on your belt. This is safe and handy and makes you feel pretty tough, too. Another approach by some is to use a folding pruning saw that can be carried in the pocket. I like these much less—they flex at the hinge under stress. The hinge also tends to collect sap or grit and rust.


  1. Clean your saw out before storing it. Tap the tool on dead wood to release most of the sawdust. Wipe sap and sawdust out of the teeth with clean burlap or other sturdy cloth. Storing tools dirty causes them to corrode and lose edge.


Chan Long Enterprise Co., Ltd. specializes in producing hand saws used in PVC plumbing, carpentry, interior decorating, making freight pallets and tree pruning. Blades are manufactured with high-carbon steel, which has been tested to Hardness Rockwell C (HRC) 52 degrees. The saw’s teeth have undergone impulse so that it has a hardness to HRC 63 degrees and thus 3-times the durability of regular saws.


Need more information about folding pruning saw or other hand saws, please don’t hesitate to contact with Chan Long. Best hand saw series all in here.



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Powerful CN-70CL Pneumatic Clinch Nailer in APACH Industrial

Are you often annoyed from having no ideal pneumatic coil nailers? I can recommend you to visit the website of Apach, the leading nailer guns manufacturer in the industry. Apach’s products are durable and can endure under harsh working environments, and therefore are highly recognized and sought-after by professionals worldwide.


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CN-70CL Pneumatic Clinch Nailers

Speciality Tools

Apach CN-70CL Pneumatic Clinch Nailer with ergonomic design shows you its powerful, rapid nailing performance. No matter industrial use or DIY, it will be the most suitable air tool for you.


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